[HecDog]

In reference to this thread that I started:
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=127465

...here's a quick DIY. Not all the photos were successful...I had a manual 35mm and am not very good at close-ups. I'll do my best to describe it. However, I highly recommend a professional since some of the foam work isn't as straight-forward as it looks. Please note, most of the upholstery terms are mine, not his. I didn't have time to consult with him, so I had to make them up for this tutorial. LOL.

In this first photo I illustrate how to remove the seat switch cover. First, remove the screw that you'll find toward the rear of the seat, behind the backrest. Next, there are two tabs under the seat that are easily visible upon inspection. Loosen those by slightly bending them outward (these pictures were under-exposed). There are two more tabs above, between the leather and the plastic switch cover, which are harder to see. Once the screw is out and the lower tabs are released, you can wedge your hand between the seat bolster and the plastic switch cover to get to the remaining tabs, indicated by the yellow dots.

Also, remove the leather and foam from the front of the seat (the adjustable part), as this will help you access the bolster leather. There are two metal clips/tabs that you'llhave to bend outward to release the leather and get to the foam.



Phew! Once the switch cover is off, you'll have to remove the plastic molding/cover that wraps around the outer edges of the seat bottom. It's covering the U-Channel that holds the leather to the frame. There are screws that are easily identified. remove them all. I've noted one below. Remember to remove them from the other side of the seat as well--near the seat-belt receptacle.



Next, remove the next plastic molding you'll find--it's large and wraps around the entire frame of the seat. You'll then find how the leather is attached to the seat. On the edges of the seat, they sewed on a flexible "U-Channel" which clips onto the edge of the seat frame, shown in the picks below:

This picture shows the U-Channel a bit better. To remove it, you'll have to pull down firmly to clear the edge, and outward to release it. You'll also need to cut two or three hog-rings (this is indeed the correct term) found under the seat, which hold the back end of the leather to the bottom of the seat foam. Remember to replace these upon re-assembly!!


Notice the edge detail. It's important to keep this edge intact when adding foam, as it lines up with the double-stitched seam found on the leather cover. DO NOT mess with this line, or it'll look like a hack job!


We tested various thickness' of foam by cutting it to fit and temporarily wrapping the leather over it. This picture shows us testing the inside of the bolster, not the outer side. We later determined 3/8" on the outside worked best. Any thicker on the outside and it might cause the plastic switch cover to "tear" into the leather.



Okay, so here's what it looks like when it's all done and mostly glued. This is a very important detail. Notice two things: first, the new edge created by the new foam MUST be in line with the old edge. This will ensure the integrity and alignment of the stitching on the cover remains intact. Otherwise, it'll look un-pro and might ruin the seat design. Secondly, notice how the edges of the foam are tucked into eachother, instead of just glued on top of one another. You have to turn the foam's edges into eachother to create this clean edge. Very important, or it'll be bulky and buldgy and won't line up.


Finally, here it is re-assembled on the bench...Don't forget the hog-rings!


As I mentioned above, and in the original thread, I'd recommend you take it to a pro, or give my buddy a call!! Hope this helped.

Enjoy.

[daytonaviolet]

great DIY name of shop and prices

[Silver///M]

Thanks for the great DIY

[Obioban]

I'm going to do it if he can get us the foam. Results look amazing and I'll have to have my seats out for a project soon anyway

[fabio]

Very cool! Thanks for taking the time to post all that up.

[TalipseAWD]

wow good job.
thats really a great idea.

[HecDog]

Okay,

so I've gotten a ton of PMs regarding my friend's contact information. I've replied to some of you, but for all others, I'll post the information here. Please, no more PMs... (jk)

His name is Mike Boloyan. He has a private shop in a residential neigborhood in Berkeley, Near Dwight/MLK. His number is 510 843-2596. He'll only accept seat-bolster jobs in the next week or two, since he'd like to not get tied up doing these bolsters. He'll charge you a nominal fee for the foam and a bit of his time. He cannot supply the foam and pieces because he's busy and works alone, and the logistics are too much for him to handle. A few of you have already called him and made appointments and he's reaching his max. Sorry guys, but that's all he can do.


Good luck to those that'll try the DIY. Please post pics when you're done.

[HecDog]

Thought I'd bump this thread since I'm sure some of you are experiencing the wrinkled bolster issue...

[skelzy]

Why is your friend still doing it or do you just want to see if anyone tried to DIY?

[HecDog]

I think he'll be willing to help out...

But the reason why I bumped it is because I thought it'd be useful information to some of our members...