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| E36 M3 (1992-1999) {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm} Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999 |
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#1 |
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Hello
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 612
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: Florida
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I think so. lol
Basically I have clunking in front and can hear it and see it when I push down on the front quarter panels. There was a good deal of play in the strut hats after I cleaned out the bearings and applied new grease. Now when I push down on the car I can visually see the strut shaft assembly move up and down while the hat stays stationary (obviously). ![]() Also, I realized that I didn't install this white spacer. Would this cause my problem? Or are my hats just beyond repair? ![]() Here are a few crappy pics of the new stance with the Eibach Pro-Kit and some Bimmerworld camber shims installed. Thanks! ![]() ![]()
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 780
Reputation: 0
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yeh that sounds like a strut hat issue to me
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#3 |
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95 SC M3
Join Date: Aug 2005
Age: 56
Posts: 3,508
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: Eldersburg, MD
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The white space has nothing to do with it. Did you get the metal washers installed in the correct order? How did you tighten the top nut?
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#4 |
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Hello
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 612
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: Florida
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I didn't think that spacer was the culprit. I do believe I got all of the washers installed in the correct orientation--I was careful with the disassembly for this very reason.
As for tightening the nut, rubber hose on a clamp to not scar the shaft and a 22mm socket. I've been doing some research and the symptoms sound more and more like shot strut hats. The struts were beyond blown so it wouldn't be a great surprise.
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#5 |
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Hello
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 612
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: Florida
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I was thinking, did I not torque down the top nut enough? There was no specific instruction, so I just kind of eyeballed it.
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#6 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 354
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: DC
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There shouldn't be any play in the strut hat bearings. I'd start by replacing them.
There are OEM versions available from RMeuropean and Pelican for around $60. When you reinstall them make sure the top nut is tightened down enough. I'm not sure how you would do this easily with hand tools, but I used an electric impact. |
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#7 |
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Banned
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,451
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: Los Angeles
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It is my opinion you didn't torque down the top nut enough. This EXACT same thing happened when I installed Konis on my 2005 Accord. There was visible movement of the shaft when bouncing the car up and down. I tightened the nut further and the strut was then rock solid. Try it out
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#8 | |
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Hello
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 612
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: Florida
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Quote:
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#9 |
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Banned
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,451
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: Los Angeles
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OEM Lemforders? I ordered new hats when I did my stuff too... everyone said it was unnecessary, then I felt bad.
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#10 |
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Hello
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 612
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: Florida
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Yeah, went with the OEM Lemforders. I should have just ordered them from the get-go but when you've done a clutch, cooling, and suspension job in a span of 5 months, you begin to be a bit more cautious with the $$$. lol
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