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Mobile M3forum |
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| E36 M3 (1992-1999) {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm} Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999 |
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#1 |
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Registered User
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First off, let me thank you guys for helping me with my slew of threads over the last few days. Since I'm off for school for the summer, I'm really trying to tackle as much as I can. This is the first car I've really had to take care of, so when stuff pops up, much of it is new to me.
Anyway, here's my latest: I want to change out the fluids for the power steering, the transmission (manual tranny here!), and the differential. Should I just stick with OEM BMW fluids? I read that Mobile 1 Automatic Transmission Fluid is good for the power steering. In the following link, RedLine Automatic Transmission fluid is recommended for the transmission, even though it is manual. Does this sound right? RedLine 75W-90 is recommended for the differential. I would consider Royal Purple products, but I read somewhere on here that metal shavings have been found in trannys and differentials that use it. Linky: http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_te...e36_fluids.htm
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-Michael
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#2 |
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M3 Boot
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You are on the right track.
I wouldn't worry much about the PS fluid. I used cheap Dexron-IV and needed about a quart to completely flush out the old stuff. Any new fluid here is likely to be a big improvement. Redline ATF for the gearbox, or you can experiment with MT90 if you want to. 75w90 for the differential, indeed. There are royal-purple kooks and haters out there. I would just buy the Redline 75w90 at the same place you get the ATF. Make sure you have the right allen socket for the diff plugs, plus a long tube and funnel to fill the transmission and diff (unless you have a fluid pump). Why not build a DIY pressure bleeder and flush the brake fluid and clutch hydraulics as well? http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm |
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#3 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
Thanks for the confirmation. I would do all that, but I don't have all the stuff (ramps and tools) Oh, and 1,001 posts!!
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-Michael
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#4 |
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Craig
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Yep. Don't forget your brakes/clutch. And yes, the manual transmission uses ATF. You will need a fluid transfer pump (cheap at any FLAPS) to get the trans fluid up into the trans.
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95 BMW M3 Current Project Cosmos Black, E46 6SP, VSL Rad, Stewart Water Pump, AA Header with 3" exhaust, aFe CAI, Euro HFM, 24lbs/hr injectors, unknown tune?, BW SS Brake Lines, Hawk HP+ Pads, M X-Brace, Mason Engineering Aluminum Strut Bar, MM Underpanel. To Do: Overhaul rear suspension, front suspension Tucson, AZ |
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#5 |
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has left the building
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Seriously, for a street only car there is zero reason to go beyond OTS brand fluid. Buy a good quality brand and you will be fine. Personally, I like RedLine but it is a bit higher and harder to find around here. RP is a serious joke for the amount they want for the stuff, so forget that. Quality brands like Amsoil and Mobil1, to mention 2, are available nearly everywhere and are reasonably priced.
I personally have used Mobil1 is all of the mentioned locations for over a decade with no issues. Synthetic ATF works best in the tranny so don't even bother with MTF regardless of what label you have on the side. The same ATF works fine in the PS system, though as mentioned above it is not required. If you are changing PS fluids get a new reservoir as it contains a filter that is likely nasty anyway. The diff can go either 75W90 or 75W140, so take your pick as it will matter not a bit on a street car. Just be damn sure the fluid you get is for limited slip, usually it will have a LS in the product name. I would recommend getting some friction modifier additive as well, and you can get either the Amsoil brand or go to the local Chevy dealer and get theirs for ~$10. Here is Nicks thread on fluids, with lots of good general info. Enjoy! EDIT: Unless the shop you are going to is run by friends of yours and/or you are gonna stand there and watch them do the job I would recommend against taking $100+ worth of fluids into a shop. The fluids would more than likely end up on the floorboard of the car of the guy doing the work and you will get the usual crap fluids they put in every other car. If you don't have a jack and some stands you need to make the investment and get them, since the labor charge you are about to pay a shop to change the fluids will likely cover the cost of these tools at Walmart or HF. Last edited by white-hot; Sat, Jun-09-2012 at 05:09:53 PM. |
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#6 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
Also, why was the viscosity spec switched from 75W-90 to 75W-140? Which would you guys recommend?
__________________
-Michael
Last edited by EmDeeAr; Sat, Jun-09-2012 at 05:21:04 PM. |
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#7 | |
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Photographer
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 788
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: Ithaca, NY
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BMW switched from 90 to 140 so they only had to have one "drum" of gear oil in stock at dealers instead of 2. Go with the 140. Be careful with limited slip additives, some gear oils already have the slip additives already mixed in and do not need additional amounts. |
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#8 | |
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Registered User
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Transmission: Mobil 1 ATF Power Steering: Also Mobil 1 ATF Differential: Mobil 1 75W-140 Limited Slip (LS) Thanks fellas. Real quick: how many quarts is needed for each area of the car?
__________________
-Michael
Last edited by EmDeeAr; Sat, Jun-09-2012 at 05:41:50 PM. |
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#10 |
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has left the building
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Time to buy a Bentley's manual for your car. They are cheap and have nearly all of the specs and directions to do just about anything on this car.
Anyway, you will need 2 quarts of diff fluid, though it only takes about 1.7 IIRC. Trans is like 1.4 and PS system will need at least 2 if you will be flushing all the old fluid out, so get 4 of the ATF. This is true, but I think Mobil1 needs some. Not sure about Amsoil or RedLine. He could likely get by without it on a street car, but still. |
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