[FIseven]

Hey guys whats up. Having a BMW tech doing my engine swap and turbo build on a OBD1 E36 M3. A S52 OBD1 is the engine being used. Ive been doing my homework regarding installing MLS HG/ARP studs and would like to ask the M3forum community to share their experience with a successful MLS HG/ARP stud install.

[pbonsalb]

Send the head out to be refinished to RA50 or less. Clean the block surface very well. Some people use sanding stones to improve the block finish. I never have.

I have always used Permatex copper spray on both sides of the MLS gasket. Cometic says nothing is needed because the MLS has a viton coating. Experienced shops differ on using nothing versus the copper spray (and some have used hylomar spray). A few people have taken apart the MLS (drilled out the rivets) and used spray glue between each layer.

Put sealant around the timing cover before laying the MLS. People use Ultra Gray, anerobic sealant, and other stuff. Mechanics have their favorites. You need something. I used Ultra Gray last time. I put a thin bead on top of the gasket also in the same timing chain cover area, although that may not have been necessary. The most common leak is at the passenger front corner of the head, in the area roughly above the primary chain tensioner. It is really hard if not impossible to seal later from the outside.

Check the initial torque on the studs multiple times over a number of hours. Same goes for any midlevel torque and the final torque.

[FIseven]

TRM suggests no spray. And I definitely agree head and block prep is key. Regarding torque procedure on the APR studs I'm still undecided. People use 32-90-90 but I hear that its been test that that creates 120 and that the new ARP studs max overall is 85. I'm not a mechanic and have never approached torquing any internal engine parts. That said I in theory believe that a torque process to overall equal a max clamping force of 85 would be best. Please correct me if that would be a huge mistake.
I agree on checking torque and Ive also been advised to check torque again after a few heat cycle's. If could remember the person said "it would be a little bit of a pain but check it again about a few weeks later".
I have time to have this done patiently as I'm currently suspended (Non-DUI related. Real driver's don't drink). Also Ill be in the consultation of a BMW tech with 10 years experience (performing the work) if I do bring up any far fetched Ideas or errors. And I know turboing my M during my suspension and returning with boost isn't the best idea

[pbonsalb]

Originally Posted by FIseven

TRM suggests no spray. And I definitely agree head and block prep is key. Regarding torque procedure on the APR studs I'm still undecided. People use 32-90-90 but I hear that its been test that that creates 120 and that the new ARP studs max overall is 85. I'm not a mechanic and have never approached torquing any internal engine parts. That said I in theory believe that a torque process to overall equal a max clamping force of 85 would be best. Please correct me if that would be a huge mistake.
I agree on checking torque and Ive also been advised to check torque again after a few heat cycle's. If could remember the person said "it would be a little bit of a pain but check it again about a few weeks later".
I have time to have this done patiently as I'm currently suspended (Non-DUI related. Real driver's don't drink). Also Ill be in the consultation of a BMW tech with 10 years experience (performing the work) if I do bring up any far fetched Ideas or errors. And I know turboing my M during my suspension and returning with boost isn't the best idea

Shops vary on the spray recommendation. You will have to decide that for yourself. ICS and Maximum Psi seem to recommend copper spray. Technica and TRM do not. I sprayed mine.

The proper spec for the revised ARP studs with the new ARP lube is 32 lbs initial and 85 lbs final. The original spec with the old ARP lube for the revised ARP studs was 32 lbs plus 90 degrees plus 90 degrees and the resulting torque is indeed up around 120 lbs. I have only done the original spec with the old ARP lube.

In your situation, I would join BMW CCA and start doing autocross and driving school days and maybe buy a set of drag radials and start drag racing. Might let you have fun with less trouble. Turbo torque can get you in trouble fast -- I have over 500 lbs rwtq before 4000 rpm and that is with the load on a dynojet (it comes in about 500 rpm sooner on the street).

[FIseven]

Definitely need to sign up for some driving school days. I'm in North Jersey and there's a few tracks not too far away. Ive always been intrigued with driving with precision and hitting an apex just right. Ive heard its a whole new world where you learn how to truly drive.

Your car sounds fun and also dangerous. I'm aiming for a 100lbs less until I can build up my engine properly. Still then I'm gonna respect the power, take it slow, feel out the car and learn its characteristics. I'm gonna have to learn a whole new way to drive.

Thanks for the advice.