[m3freak86]

Nice pick up on the helmet! I plan on picking up the same one. Unsure of what color though. I like black, but I feel it may be too hot for the track.

I have a feeling I know what the car is getting done . I won't spoil it for others though. . Be ready to be sore the next few days and remember, take your time!

[flipm3]

Hehe, I think I have a good feeling of what's about to happen. I won't guess though so others have the opportunity.

Originally Posted by m3freak86

Nice pick up on the helmet! I plan on picking up the same one. Unsure of what color though. I like black, but I feel it may be too hot for the track.

I have a feeling I know what the car is getting done . I won't spoil it for others though. . Be ready to be sore the next few days and remember, take your time!

I don't think you have to worry about getting to hot with a black helmet. My very last track day nearly two years ago was around 90ºF in the docks, with I assume, much higher temps on track. I didn't think it was too hot at all.

[andrewboi]

Finally! After purchasing these headers back in December...or may be even earlier, I finally had the chance to install them! While I was doing this, I took the chance to do a couple maintenance items

Install:
AP V2 Headers (new nuts, gaskets)
Tensioner Bolt O-ring crush washer
CPV O-ring

The header install took me 2 solid days. The hardest part was getting TO the headers, and one stud that gave me issues. More to come later.

Thanks to mikymu for his thread here and the DIY
http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthrea...nt#post2079187

Also thanks to Alex (flipm3) and Chris (m3freak86) for answering my PMs on the fly with my questions.

Here are the nuts, one by one being pulled out


Finally, got these fat boys out!


While doing the install, all but one of my studs backed out. I decided not to spend the extra time to double nut and pull my old studs out. I only replaced the one stud that backed out with a fresh one. Reading the various DIYs only, most people just say finger tighten, and then when the nut is put on, it will screw into the block all the way...not for me.

This nut for some reason would go down all the way, and instead of continuing on to push the stud in, would start backing it out. I tried to double nut it to push the stud in, but nothing worked. I spent may be 3 hours on this stud, as it was in the worst position possible (bottom nut on the 4th flange, counting from the firewall). I was worried I would strip something in the block. Here is a photo of my situation


With so much tread exposed, there was may be only 3 or so threads actually in the block...not good

I gave up, and resorted to using the old stud with the nut that was stuck on (the one that backed out together). Assuming that the nut was stuck on the nut super tight, I crossed my fingers, put some red loctite, and screwed in this stud. I fingered 1 out of 18 wasn't too bad, and have my fingers crossed that it won't back out on the fly. Here it is


Not perfect, but much better. The rest of my nuts go in deep enough that the stud is flush with the top of the nut. This one goes a little further down, but at least I know there is a little more thread than my first attempt. As a side note, can anyone tell me what the other threaded hole is there for? It has me puzzled

While down there, I undid my tensioner bolt with a 32mm wrench and replaced the crush washer. Hopefully that will get rid of the leak. With the headers gone, this was a cinch. I fit a giant 32mm in there with no problems



Nice and snug and cleaned up!


While down there, I figured I would change the o-ring on my CPV. It wasn't leaking, but since it was easy to access, why not. I just hope I don't make it worst. The old o-ring was so dried out it was hard as plastic


Finally all bolted up together!


I decided to leave the heatshield off, and only installed the bottom metal plate that goes under the AC (I think??) hoses. If I find that my temps go up, I will reinstall the heatshield next time.

Oh yah, and I am stupid...accidentally touched the hot headers. Hello blisters!


Car is still on stands, but ran it for a good 10 minutes - no CEL. I will bolt up the reinforcement plate tomorrow and take it for a spin.

ALMOST THERE!!!!

Next I have to figure out
-DSC light problem
-Clunk/Clank sound
-Dyno after headers
-Send my file to get my Evolve Tune

[0-60Motorsports]

Great Update. I would put the heat shield back on unless you live in a cold area.

[m3freak86]

Glad to see you got it all done! Sucks about that stud. I did everything finger tight (on all 3 headers installs i've done) with some lock tite on there and just bolted everything down and they went in just fine. But looks like you did the right thing with using the older stud/nut.

As I said, no need for the heat shield. I have not seen any adverse effect of not running a heat-shield, even in +100 degree temps. Also, my previous headers were ceramic coated AND I used the heat shield. My current AP headers are not ceramic coated and I am not running a heat shield and I see no difference between them.

Just wait for the evolve tune . Now go drive the same thing. It'll take the pain off those finger blisters in no time.

[andrewboi]

Originally Posted by 0-60Motorsports

Great Update. I would put the heat shield back on unless you live in a cold area.

Thanks for the heads up. I live in Vancouver. Right now our summers peak at 20 degrees Celsius/68F so its not too bad. I think I will keep it off for now and monitor it. If anything changes, I will throw it back on.

Originally Posted by m3freak86

Glad to see you got it all done! Sucks about that stud. I did everything finger tight (on all 3 headers installs i've done) with some lock tite on there and just bolted everything down and they went in just fine. But looks like you did the right thing with using the older stud/nut.

As I said, no need for the heat shield. I have not seen any adverse effect of not running a heat-shield, even in +100 degree temps. Also, my previous headers were ceramic coated AND I used the heat shield. My current AP headers are not ceramic coated and I am not running a heat shield and I see no difference between them.

Just wait for the evolve tune . Now go drive the same thing. It'll take the pain off those finger blisters in no time.

I can't wait!
I feel like I should sort out my DSC and clunking issue first though before I get too many headers on. I don't want too many complications I can't resolve at the same time!

[adrianma]

this is such a great journal on such an awesome color car i am beating myself for not finding it earlier!!

on a side note... do you have the part number for the alcantara steering wheel you bought?

THANKS!

[andrewboi]

Originally Posted by adrianma

this is such a great journal on such an awesome color car i am beating myself for not finding it earlier!!

on a side note... do you have the part number for the alcantara steering wheel you bought?

THANKS!

Thanks!

It should be part 32342282992. Its a great addition!

[andrewboi]

I have the car insured for the weekend and will try and spend some time testing out this new set up of headers!

So far, so good - no CEL yet but I would guess this would come up soon since I have not cats.

Power delivery seems smooth, with an extra kick in the 4000 RPM+ range. No noticeable difference in the lower RPMs when you are driving. I hope to be able to test this out on the dyno soon.

However, the rasp is a little too much now, and no cats probably increased the volume by 20-25% which I was hoping would be a little less. Also not sure how long I can stand the no cats smell!

In the meantime, any body have some good recommendations for section 1 setups with resonator/rasp eliminator or cats?

[Dizzeep]

I know that CPI's section 1s are popular with some of the members on here. Might give them a shout out and see what they can do for you.