[suss1173]

Originally Posted by shimmy

can i ask what cell cats you are using? 100.200.or 400?

Not sure, if you tell me how to check and its easy to do I will post it.

[shimmy]

Originally Posted by suss1173

Not sure, if you tell me how to check and its easy to do I will post it.

Not easy to do!

Typically OeM cats are 400cell (200cell for CSL) and upgrades normally are 100cell or catless. They look similar to naked eye.

[suss1173]

Originally Posted by shimmy

Not easy to do!

Typically OeM cats are 400cell (200cell for CSL) and upgrades normally are 100cell or catless. They look similar to naked eye.

Than they are probably the 400 cell. I'm the second owner of the car and try to do most work my self, and have not done any exhaust work on the car.

The prior owner did everything at the stealership, I even have records that show he purchased tires at the stealer so chances are if they were changed at the dealer they would have done 400's. But none of the records show any exhaust work.

[AP3X_FTW]

Originally Posted by jmciver

I remember that post/thread, as it was one of many that I have read recently on this issue. One correction though. I emailed Zionsville about their Competition Radiator (the one with the included 16" Spal fan) and it has the same coolant capacity as the stock radiator. Also, if you have your own 16" Spal fan (which I happened to purchase/install just prior to my last track event, including a temperature controller) you can purchase the radiator without the fan saving $109 off the total price.

Thanks for the heads up on that. Im planning on purchasing a 16" Spal fan soon so I have a couple questions for you.

Which fan did you go with and where did you purchase?

Was ditching the clutch fan etc fairly easy?

Did you keep all the stock shrouds in place?

Any issues in stop and go traffic around town?

[admranger]

This subject has been beaten to death, but given the heat outside I can understand why it is up again.

OP: do a quick search, you'll find lots of info like AP3X FTW posted, including my own experience with oil cooler/stock rad, aftermarket rad/stock oil cooler, and aftermarket rad/aftermarket oil cooler.

There is also evidence that suggests overfilling with oil is a cause (makes sense).

[jmciver]

Originally Posted by AP3X_FTW

Thanks for the heads up on that. Im planning on purchasing a 16" Spal fan soon so I have a couple questions for you.

Which fan did you go with and where did you purchase?

Was ditching the clutch fan etc fairly easy?

Did you keep all the stock shrouds in place?

Any issues in stop and go traffic around town?

I purchased a Spal 16" fan from RRT that they had on the shelf (and had them install it) when my car was at their shop getting some final track prep work done. I don't know the exact model, but it is a straight blade puller fan that they install in all of their race cars and is probably the same one that the others have mentioned on the forum and you can purchase from several vendors.

All of the stock shroud pieces remained in place. I had them use the "zip tie" method to attach the fan to the radiator. I am not a fan of this method, bust since I will be upgrading my radiator soon, I was not too concerned about it. I also had them install a Derale adjustable temperature controller (Kit 16759) as seen here:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/259/16759/10002/-1

I got the kit with the push in probe since it made installation easier for now. When I upgrade my radiator I plan to replace the push-in type probe for a screw in type that will be installed in the coolant flow using an adapter. I had the probe installed on the outlet side of the radiator so that the fan would come on based on radiator outlet temperature, and not engine coolant outlet temperature. The OEM aux fan temperature switch is wired to the radiator outlet side as well.

With the temperature sensor on the coolant outlet side, it will only come on if the radiator is not cooling well enough, thus running less than if it came on based on engine coolant outlet temperature. The stock coolant gauge senses engine coolant outlet, and not radiator outlet. RRT used their professional scan tool to adjust the Derale temperature controller based on radiator outlet temperature (it comes on at approx 162 degrees radiator outlet temp). I also have an override button to turn on the fan as well.

As far as any overheating issues, I had none on my first day at the track with track temps at a dry 88-90 degrees or so (23-24 Jun at NJMP). On day two, both oil an coolant temps rose with oil getting up to approx 245 degrees (as read on the stock gauge) and coolant temp up to the tick mark just before red. Track temps the second day were a bit warmer at 90-92, but I was also driving the car considerably harder, maintaining RPMs much higher for longer periods of time (like I should have been driving it on day one ). The higher engine temps forced me to take a few "cool" laps during my track sessions.

The first time I drove it on the street after the track event was during one of the 100+ (and very humid) days here in Northern Virginia. While on the highway, I noticed that both oil and coolant temps did creep up a bit above their "normal" temps, but nothing that caused me any concern. At stop lights or any slow speeds, the Spal fan quickly brought any slightly elevated temps back to their "normal" values. Prior to that I never had any elevated temps on the street (but I can't remember the last time I drove the car in heat like that).

[djdcyphr]

I would love to see more pics of these installs. If anyone has them handy, please post them up.

Also, when these fans are installed, is there a switch mounted in the cabin? or do they turn on and off automatically?

[jmciver]

Originally Posted by djdcyphr

I would love to see more pics of these installs. If anyone has them handy, please post them up.

Also, when these fans are installed, is there a switch mounted in the cabin? or do they turn on and off automatically?

You can do both (cabin switch and automatic controller) which is what I did. The automatic controller that I used even made it easy to use a cabin switch as it had a connection for one.

A few pics below. Not much to see, but you can see where I mounted the temp controller and the spot where the push-in temp probe was installed.

[shimmy]

my gut feel is that this overheating on track at full throttle is a simple age related problem related to fuel filter/regulator, heater valve or matrix

most of us have tried everything else to cure it (me more than most) and some sem to avoid it and some seem to get it as the age of cars rolls on