[Zoomz]

Ok I looked again. It should be where 3and 4 go, and the other side too.

[apnea]

Originally Posted by Zoomz

Ok I looked again. It should be where 3and 4 go, and the other side too.

Thank you. And I can just pry this slightly towards the rear after that, or do I have to loosen anything on the driveshaft end?

Oh, do you remember the torque specs for those diff bolts?

I really appreciate the help.

[Zoomz]

I didn't actually tighten those. So I can't be sure...
I think we pryed it up and forward. The shaft just pulls out then goes right back in place when you get it aligned again.

[Ilove2dubb]

That really sucks..

[apnea]

After a lot of sweat and frustration, I got the new arms on single-handedly this morning. I did loads of searching and PM'ing people with questions. Thanks to all who helped. Doing this on jackstands is a seemingly straightforward, but tough job. A friend is a huge asset.

My tips for the next person installing rear camber control arms DIY:

1. You've got to take off the rear v-brace and passenger side undertray above it to get access to the third differential bolt.

2. The two torx heads on the top rear of the differential are E14. I found a ratcheting box end 12mm wrench (Craftsman ones I have fit torx heads) helpful in getting these bolts out all of the way. A ratchet and socket quickly run out of room and you'll need your fingers or a wrench.

3. You have to pry pretty hard on the diff to move it towards the rear and from one side to another. I had best luck supporting the diff as far forward as possible with the jack.

4. You (mercifully) don't need to do anything with the bolts at the front of the diff where the drive shaft comes in.

5. Don't waste time removing the rear sway bar.

6. The driver's side is more difficult due to impaired visual access, but it's not worth the trouble of dropping section 2 of the exhaust.

7. I installed TMS arms and realized after the fact it would have been better to break the outer adjustment ends loose before putting onto the car.

8. Save time by inserting the new arm and replacing the bolt immediately after removing the old one. I was an idiot and took both arms off first, requiring extra maneuvering of the differential.

9. I found it impossible to line up the outer ends with the ball joint until I dropped the front of the rear trailing arm. Jacking the suspension to compress the spring won't do the trick. You've got to get an alignment anyway....

10. Getting the differential back in is not nearly as hard as you think. Supported with the jack you can pretty easily maneuver it so that the front bolt lines up (you can directly visualize this if you get under it). Once that's in the rears are a piece of cake. If you get the holes lined up right with the jack, they thread in quite easily by hand.

11. The higher up you can get the car, the better.

Not something I want to do again.