[ccblanket]

Originally Posted by Tk7294

Ha, no Im in Washington I didnt think that far into it. I wouldnt blame you if you wanted to keep your 19s like everyone is insisting they are beautiful. I wouldnt really know how to really go about the trade if you really wanted to do it, but I will ponder on this and see if I come up with anything, thanks!

Never mind . Personally I would never buy/sell/trade tires if it requires shipping (especially sell/trade) -way too expensive-. On the other hand, I would first do the suspension. It could really be my stock suspension only giving me truck-like ride feeling.

[GJGM3]

Originally Posted by ccblanket

heh, I was looking at tire prices. It is like 350+ per tire. Add another 150 for installation, shipping, etc. When I get coilovers installed, if I screw up alignment, tires could easily add up to the price of coilovers

Should I get camber plates?

Nope. Camber plates are not required. You'll have enough adjustment on OEM.

[bosundave]

Originally Posted by ccblanket

heh, I was looking at tire prices. It is like 350+ per tire. Add another 150 for installation, shipping, etc. When I get coilovers installed, if I screw up alignment, tires could easily add up to the price of coilovers

Should I get camber plates?

I was dead set against getting camber plates because of the added expense and it being just one more thing. My shop talked me in to it. TMS street plates.
I just love them.
You see you can add a whole bunch more CASTER too which totally transformed the tracking of the M. The added caster added so much stability to its ride.
I have the front tires kicked pit to -1.8 too which i really like as well.
Do you NEED camber plates? No. Do you WANT them? Hell yes.

[GJGM3]

True, nice to have and for sure not needed. I've got -1.7 degrees with my OEM setup which will work well for tire wear - more aggressive than that and you're going to start seeing more wear on the inside of your tires up front. You should also be slightly more aggressive on your left side given BMW's slight differences for the drivers' side (left side is -1.5 degrees), and cross-camber is at -0.2 degrees.

The advantage to plates is being able to more easily adjust it for different driving conditions as with tracking (or changing it up from street). In this instance you'd perhaps want to change it up either based on a street setup, track or perhaps the characteristics of track you're going to be running at. But, a complete waste since at least in the USA you're not going to be tracking the 'vert, other than some limited time trials, or perhaps auto-X.

I'm curious though - what was it that your shop used to persuade you? I go to a pro shop that used to tune my p-cars and they race in the GT GrandAm series. I was told it wasn't needed and it would've been a waste of dough, although they were willing to take the business on the labor if I insisted (good friends). I bought them to give me the adjustment I thought I'd need at my height especially with the 9" front HRE 543R I was rocking. As a result I sold the UUC camber setup.

If there's one thing you'd want to change that's a weak link that's the OEM rear control arms. There's nothing to them. I bought my UUC ARCA at the same time I bought the camber plates. The ARCAs are on the car. My other $0.02.

[ccblanket]

Here is exactly my situation:
* Car is almost @55K miles now. I checked the records from BMW, it does not mention anything about suspension parts replaced, so I believe it is all stock -checked shocks/struts; says SACHS all over them-.
* The mechanic checked the car on the lift in front of me; and he said there is no play in existing RTABs and FCABs, everything is tight. The RTABs did flex to either side but I guess that's normal with OEM.
* The car is completely a DD. Never will see any kind of track. I like taking corners aggressively sometimes but that is it.

My complaints about the car is:
* Rattles much over rough roads. It is like I am feeling too much of the imperfections on the road.
* Too much squeaking from the rear; not always but usually. Yes it comes from rear suspension but I am no expert why it happens. It feels like Homedepot rental truck going over bumps and squeaking.
* When taking corners aggressively, sometimes there is too much body roll.

Since we are in California -so no winter tires, etc- and I will never track the car, once I set the height and suspension to something low and comfortable, I will not change it ever again.

Now I have already purchased GC RSMs, powerflex FCABs/RTABs. But anything I really don't need, I guess I can return since I purchased them from a local store.

What should I do?
I am trying to decide between Koni Yellows + Vogtland springs and KW (or maybe GC) coilovers. There is approximately a $1K price difference. This is before adding any other aftermarket suspension pieces like adjustable links/control arms, etc which I may or may not need -I have no idea -.

So, what do you guys suggest now?

best
--hikmet

[GJGM3]

The noise in your rear is likely the RSM (heavy weight bearing area for the vert in particular) and shocks. Seems like you have everything you need minus the coilover or spring/damper setup.

Vogtland springs and Koni SA are nice, just decide if you like the height. Prior to my existing setup I ran Tein S Tech (GARBAGE) and Koni SA. The ride height was really nice, but forget-about-it on the springs. The front are 200 lbs. Useless. I don't think the Vogtland's are going to be as aggressive, but perhaps it'll suit you. However, if you think you might want to adjust your height and go aggressive, perhaps slammed, then you can't go wrong with KW. They're more expensive, but it really depends on what you want.

If I were you, with 55k on the clock I'd go ahead with you FCAB/RTAB as you don't want to do back through labor.

You won't need ARCAs unless you're getting real aggressive with your rear camber. I was running 10.5" wheels in the back on 275 and had planned on a 285, and slammed. I don't need to repeat the issue for the front as plates just aren't needed, but, it is nice to just *have* a fully adjustable suspension, assuming then you go to the back end of the car and add ARCAs. I would think that's where you'd need the camber adjustment if you're running big wheels/tires, slam the car, and need aggressive negative camber beyond OEM adjustment. On the front, you're just not going to get that wide to the extent you'd need them, other than changing it up as I referenced.

I'd invest in some f/r sways and just call it a day after getting your KWv2.

Now, obviously this is my opinion and I'm certain others will chime in +/-.

Good luck either way.

[GJGM3]

Full Vorsteiner Tuner Car setup - a little higher ride height than my adjustment later - I think with this one I was at 12.75" squared, now at 12" squared - same suspension as I never removed it.





Back to near stock minus suspension & on HRE 543R - loved this setup - I'm going to hold off again on selling the car for another year so in the meantime I'm picking up 11" rear BBS LM and rocking 285 and on the front a special offset.










On OEM 19" - Same Height using 15mm front spacers, 5mm rear

[ccblanket]

I saw Vogtland+Konis on another user's car on the forum and the drop is nice. I don't think I would want less or more height than that. The important thing is the spring rates I guess which I don't have any info about.

As for tires, I have the standard 19 OEM setup 225 front and 255 rear I believe. No plans to go wider.

Anyway, thanks for the good wishes. I'll probably decide soon on what to do.

[GJGM3]

Seems like a pretty nice setup. According to the picture, they're progressive springs (or so it seems) and the drop is 1" or 25mm. No other technical info.

Seems like a nice drop over OEM and very reasonably price.

http://www.vogtlandsuspension.com/p5...duct_info.html