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E36 M3 (1992-1999) {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999

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Old Wed, Jul-29-2009, 08:59:50 PM   #11
OahuMPower
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When the needle is straight up and down, it is reading 160-260. BMW owners used to complain until BMW rigged it to stay straight up for a wide range. If it goes over that, you are in 300+ territory. Aluminum heads on steel blocks can warp when too hot.

Consider a broken blade on the water pump, that fell off and is lodged somewhere. That worst case. This happened to a guy who got it out by removing the drain bolt on the block.

Consider a bad thermostat, as you have already. Cheap and easy to replace at $20.

I do the FDM (fan delete mod) here in Northern CA without issue, but 90 degrees it the most I ever see.
sure it's 160-260?? I didnt think it was that wide..

and completely agree that FDM is worth it with the proper supporting mods,

Hawaii weather 90+ in the summer, and hot all year around, in major traffic and zero issues...
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Old Thu, Jul-30-2009, 06:45:48 AM   #12
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Status update.


I pulled the water pump out, and it was A-OK the bearings felt good, the blades were in good shape, so i replace it anyways

I pulled the T-stat, it looked okay, but again i replaced it anyways and all is well, drove the car for a while tonight and let it idle for a while. She stayed cool as a cucumber.

Thanks for all the help!
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Old Thu, Jul-30-2009, 06:53:53 AM   #13
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thermo can "appear" to be good, but be bad under heat conditions....

glad it's working out....

good bleed I'm assuming?
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Old Thu, Jul-30-2009, 07:05:58 AM   #14
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Preventative maintanance on the water pump is never bad
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Old Thu, Jul-30-2009, 12:02:18 PM   #15
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I love the guys that think the stock fan is good for anything other than pulling some air through the radiator at walking speeds or less. (it doesn't)

The stock gauge stays in the middle from 130F to about 225F (in my car)

Fan delete on my car for 6 years with no issues. Ideling at Dulles airport in 110 heat, ac on. 210F! If it goes higher than that, you have a problem.
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Old Thu, Jul-30-2009, 01:57:10 PM   #16
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Richard and Cal, you guys help further my decision to go ahead with the FDM. I bought the kit but have it sitting because I want to find radiator I don't have to zip tie my coolant reservoir too.

What have u guys done, I know i've seen pics of yours somewhere in a thread Calvin. How did u mount yours? I was going to get Euro reservoir to put by diagnostic port.
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Old Thu, Jul-30-2009, 08:18:59 PM   #17
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Richard and Cal, you guys help further my decision to go ahead with the FDM. I bought the kit but have it sitting because I want to find radiator I don't have to zip tie my coolant reservoir too.

What have u guys done, I know i've seen pics of yours somewhere in a thread Calvin. How did u mount yours? I was going to get Euro reservoir to put by diagnostic port.
If i remeber what cal said in an earlier post to me, he has the same zionsville comp radiator i do. That radiator kit has a metal expansion tank that is bolted to it.

for example

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Old Thu, Jul-30-2009, 08:26:23 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by OahuMPower View Post
sure it's 160-260?? I didnt think it was that wide..

and completely agree that FDM is worth it with the proper supporting mods,

Hawaii weather 90+ in the summer, and hot all year around, in major traffic and zero issues...
Sorry. Not sure about the 160-260 range. I read that on this forum somewhere.
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Old Thu, Jul-30-2009, 09:12:36 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SneauxM3 View Post
Richard and Cal, you guys help further my decision to go ahead with the FDM. I bought the kit but have it sitting because I want to find radiator I don't have to zip tie my coolant reservoir too.

What have u guys done, I know i've seen pics of yours somewhere in a thread Calvin. How did u mount yours? I was going to get Euro reservoir to put by diagnostic port.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrekucki View Post
If i remeber what cal said in an earlier post to me, he has the same zionsville comp radiator i do. That radiator kit has a metal expansion tank that is bolted to it.
i do have the same one. Mine is mounted to the radiator. Just make sure you have the fan coolant sensor plugged in properly (this is vital)

and yeah, the Euro reservoir would be perfect for what you need
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Old Fri, Jul-31-2009, 03:49:13 PM   #20
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okay, so here we are morning of day 2 after the fix and when the car is turned off, it is still puking coolant from the expansion tank the hoses start gurgling and coolant comes out of the pressure release hose, as if the cap is not holding pressure. Has anyone with a stant coolant cap ever had a problem with the cap not holding pressure?
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Discussing coolant gurus, I need some insite in the E36 M3 (1992-1999) Forum - {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999 at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)