Attacking the RTABS and Tie-Rods. Any tips?

CodyLtr · Sat, Nov-21-2009, 12:34:55 AM

My RTABS and Tie-rods are shot and I'm going to be changing them in a few weeks. I'm getting UUC Rtabs but not sure on the Tie-rods, should I just get stock replacements? Also any tips when replacing either of these?

bmwpowere36m3 · Sat, Nov-21-2009, 12:50:05 AM

Tie-rods are easy, you got a pickle fork or tie-rod spreader tool? Don't forget the "lock-nuts" for the tie-rods and OE, Lemforder tie-rods are the best. RTABs, I'd go with PF... removing the old one's will be a pita no matter what, unless you have the proper press tool. I had a full shop of tools, and they were still a pita (old ones were rusted to the trailing arms). Us anything you can to remove them, press, sawzall, air hammer, drills, etc...

ArBrnSnpr · Sat, Nov-21-2009, 02:02:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bmwpowere36m3

Tie-rods are easy, you got a pickle fork or tie-rod spreader tool? Don't forget the "lock-nuts" for the tie-rods and OE, Lemforder tie-rods are the best. RTABs, I'd go with PF... removing the old one's will be a pita no matter what, unless you have the proper press tool. I had a full shop of tools, and they were still a pita (old ones were rusted to the trailing arms). Us anything you can to remove them, press, sawzall, air hammer, drills, etc...

I used an air chisel to remove the old ones. Granted mine weren't rusted but it took about 20-30 minutes per side to get the old ones out.
When I did them on my E46 M3 I never really thought to use the air chisel. I used a step bit on the Dewalt and went half way from each side, then hit the sleeve of the bushing with a section of hacksaw blade. That method took about 2 hours per side....Wish I would have though of the impact tools the first time around

fiveightandten · Sat, Nov-21-2009, 04:40:01 AM

I had a real hard time getting my tie rod ends off. I'm in New England, but still, don't be surprised if you have to use heat. Even PB blaster didn't help out with that one. It was getting them off the inner tie rods that gave me the problem.

If you go poly for the RTABs, but sure to grease them up very very well. You don't want any squeaking, as you'll have to drop the arm again to get at them and rectify it.

cstern · Sat, Nov-21-2009, 02:47:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fiveightandten

I had a real hard time getting my tie rod ends off. I'm in New England, but still, don't be surprised if you have to use heat. Even PB blaster didn't help out with that one. It was getting them off the inner tie rods that gave me the problem.

If you go poly for the RTABs, but sure to grease them up very very well. You don't want any squeaking, as you'll have to drop the arm again to get at them and rectify it.

So you just replaced the outer ends? I'm about to replace the entire rod and the boots with lemfoerder parts. Any tips on that? Will it be easier since I don't need to worry about the adjustment point being seized?

OahuMPower · Sat, Nov-21-2009, 05:02:51 PM

replacing the entire rod will be much easier.....

cstern · Sat, Nov-21-2009, 05:32:40 PM

I thought so. The threads on the end that go to the rack already have some compound on them. Kinda greasy. They seem like quality pieces.

shaeff · Sat, Nov-21-2009, 11:01:30 PM

I picked up an RTAB puller- made easy work of both sides.

Air chisel will work well too, but mine is broken and I have yet to replace it. I like adding tools to my 'box.

Sat, Nov-21-2009, 12:34:55 AM	#1
CodyLtr Registered User Join Date: Jun 2009 Posts: 295 Reputation: 0 Location: Knoxville	Attacking the RTABS and Tie-Rods. Any tips? My RTABS and Tie-rods are shot and I'm going to be changing them in a few weeks. I'm getting UUC Rtabs but not sure on the Tie-rods, should I just get stock replacements? Also any tips when replacing either of these?

Sat, Nov-21-2009, 12:50:05 AM	#2
bmwpowere36m3 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2005 Posts: 729 Reputation: 0	Tie-rods are easy, you got a pickle fork or tie-rod spreader tool? Don't forget the "lock-nuts" for the tie-rods and OE, Lemforder tie-rods are the best. RTABs, I'd go with PF... removing the old one's will be a pita no matter what, unless you have the proper press tool. I had a full shop of tools, and they were still a pita (old ones were rusted to the trailing arms). Us anything you can to remove them, press, sawzall, air hammer, drills, etc... __________________ Mike... aka Track Junkie_______Aiptek Low-Cost In-Car Video Setup or PM ME for details '98.5 M3 Coupe Titan Silver

Sat, Nov-21-2009, 04:40:01 AM	#4
fiveightandten He'll save children, but not the British children... Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 7,723 In the garage: '03 BMW 330CI '02 SUBARU WRX '98 BMW M3 Reputation: 0 Location: Connecticut	I had a real hard time getting my tie rod ends off. I'm in New England, but still, don't be surprised if you have to use heat. Even PB blaster didn't help out with that one. It was getting them off the inner tie rods that gave me the problem. If you go poly for the RTABs, but sure to grease them up very very well. You don't want any squeaking, as you'll have to drop the arm again to get at them and rectify it. __________________ -Nick

Sat, Nov-21-2009, 05:02:51 PM	#6
OahuMPower :FACEPALM: Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 26,550 Reputation: 0 Location: San Diego	replacing the entire rod will be much easier..... __________________

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Sat, Nov-21-2009, 05:32:40 PM	#7
cstern Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 670 Reputation: 0	I thought so. The threads on the end that go to the rack already have some compound on them. Kinda greasy. They seem like quality pieces.

Sat, Nov-21-2009, 11:01:30 PM	#8
shaeff Maintenance FTW Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 840 Reputation: 0 Location: Tivoli	I picked up an RTAB puller- made easy work of both sides. Air chisel will work well too, but mine is broken and I have yet to replace it. I like adding tools to my 'box.