[Roland H]

Get the ZHP knob and call it quits.

[2wenty6]

Haha..the only reason I'm considering a SSK is because I'm taking the whole shifter assembly out to do the bushing. Figured that I should do it now instead of later on when I have to tear apart the DS and exhaust again.

But I think I'll save the money for now, and like you said, decide after I've had experience with an SSK. I've driven an acquaintance's manual Celica, the throw is much, much shorter than the M3. But can't say I like it, makes me doubt if I'm really putting it in the right place. But that could just be a case of familiarizing myself

Anyway, about the ZHP knob, is it weighted slightly more than stock? I took my shifter knob out once and it felt weighted - don't exactly know how heavy but not light like its just a shell. Felt kinda like a paperweight. It was replaced by the PO when I bought the car.

[Roland H]

Originally Posted by 2wenty6

Haha..the only reason I'm considering a SSK is because I'm taking the whole shifter assembly out to do the bushing. Figured that I should do it now instead of later on when I have to tear apart the DS and exhaust again.

But I think I'll save the money for now, and like you said, decide after I've had experience with an SSK. I've driven an acquaintance's manual Celica, the throw is much, much shorter than the M3. But can't say I like it, makes me doubt if I'm really putting it in the right place. But that could just be a case of familiarizing myself

Anyway, about the ZHP knob, is it weighted slightly more than stock? I took my shifter knob out once and it felt weighted - don't exactly know how heavy but not light like its just a shell. Felt kinda like a paperweight. It was replaced by the PO when I bought the car.

It's a shorter knob and is weighted by BMW. Best knob available for this car imho.

[garyk]

I just ordered everything to overhaul my shifter so I think I can help you with part numbers needed (haven't done it yet, just have the parts here). I didn't get the understeer kit as I just ordered everything separately, but looking at their picture it comes with:

25-11-7-527-254: M roadster shift lever (already bent properly for you)
25-11-1-220-439: yellow plastic washers x4
25-11-7-571-899: securing clip x2
25-11-1-469-397: shift lever bushing

To complete the overhaul, you need to get:

25-11-1-222-688: rod joint (should come w/sponge washer and circlip...mine did)
25-11-1-222-015: chassis side bushing for the carrier
25-11-1-221-849: guide pin (or ***** clip...whatever it's called)

You can also get the oem carrier bushing (25-11-7-507-695), but might as well get the delrin bushings from UUC or other for a little more money. Make sure to get the 'oval' bushings for M3 fitment.

One thing I didn't think of and should have ordered was the shifter shaft seal going into the transmission. If it's not hard to do with trans in the car, it might be a good idea to do this while you're in there if the seal is worn and leaking at all.

[2wenty6]

Thanks garyk - this should've came earlier! before I spent the whole night doing an Excel sheet of part numbers and prices

So anyway, where did you buy the M roadster lever from? I searched rmeuropean but they don't carry it. Don't know if I'm going that route, its just to satisfy my curiousity.

The selector seal do you mean this - 23121282394, Seal Selector Rod Manual Transmission.

I'm getting that to fix the leak

[garyk]

I bought the shift lever from Tischer BMW.

That part # looks right for the seal.

[egebhardt]

Jamie from Spearfish bought the Rogue SSK. He said it was the worst money he ever spent. It added a lot of notchiness to his 97 M3/4/5.
In Rapid City, you may benefit more from the maintenance items that cold weather brings. I went to SD Tech in Rapid, and I would say to replace tie-rods and rear PowerFlex RTABs first. The shocks and struts may be rusted through too.
I did part of the Pelican shifter bushing kit, but later had to buy the rest of the kit in pieces. I coulda saved money and bought it complete.

I replaced the selector rod seal too, but I scratched the seal seat. It leaked from there on out. Next time, I would buy another seal and push it on top of the existing one. It will stay. Digging the old one out took me 8 hours. Not worth the damage it caused, however, I had the transmission in the car the whole time, as I suspect you will.

[OahuMPower]

I did a DIY on the selector seal, and there is NO WAY it should of taken you 8 hours

[2wenty6]

Originally Posted by OahuMPower

I did a DIY on the selector seal, and there is NO WAY it should of taken you 8 hours

I'm hoping it won't lol, will have driveshaft and exhaust out and will have access to a lift. But well, I have Saturday and whole of Sunday

Originally Posted by egebhardt

Jamie from Spearfish bought the Rogue SSK. He said it was the worst money he ever spent. It added a lot of notchiness to his 97 M3/4/5.
In Rapid City, you may benefit more from the maintenance items that cold weather brings. I went to SD Tech in Rapid, and I would say to replace tie-rods and rear PowerFlex RTABs first. The shocks and struts may be rusted through too.
I did part of the Pelican shifter bushing kit, but later had to buy the rest of the kit in pieces. I coulda saved money and bought it complete.

I replaced the selector rod seal too, but I scratched the seal seat. It leaked from there on out. Next time, I would buy another seal and push it on top of the existing one. It will stay. Digging the old one out took me 8 hours. Not worth the damage it caused, however, I had the transmission in the car the whole time, as I suspect you will.

Guess what! I'm going to SDSMT too! Well anyway, front suspension components are all replaced, except struts. I'm waiting til summer to do the rears. Not doing SSK, wanna see how the stock feel feels like first.
The shocks and struts housing looks pretty good (no rusts) when I checked about 2 months ago, and Rapid City is using sand to melt the snow now
Will keep in mind not to scratch the seal seat, thanks!