[APIindy]

This is a great thread. I just noticed that my Dif is leaking before my last track day. I am not to the drip point but I need to replace seals before it is too late.

[jcreme]

just found some mobil1 75w140 at autozone for $17/liter. Done.

Can't find an M10 anywere; hoping I can get a good grip on those bolts with a hex socket.

[jaciuro]

I appreciate the heads up. Please do let me know how it turns out, what you encounter and pictures of the tools that you needed (which actually worked to get the seal out) and spanner.

Thanks a lot. I think I may work on mine as well this weekend. Good luck.

Originally Posted by jcreme

I'm doing it this weekend. Based on my shop manual from Bentley Publishers, you need

• An input shaft seal
• An input flange lock plate (I'm betting this is optional - literallly )
• 1.3L Castrol SAF XJ

No mention of the crush sleave, it says to mark the nut and input shaft to ensure it is in the exact same place on re-assmbly

Special tools required are

• an inside seal puller
• a spanner to hold the lock plate while you loosen/tighten the lock nut
• An M10 Torx Socket for the lock plate bolts

The Castrol SAF XJ is $40-60 per liter at all sources I found. Does anyone have enough knowledge to say a replacement is ok? Even Royal Purple is only $15 per liter. Castrol shows this to be a 75W140 gear oil http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp...J_B1174_96.pdf

[jcreme]

hmm.. I guess i'm a little gh-eTTO...

I don't have the spanner, I'm planning on trying to rig up something to hold the plate still whilst I turn the nut. the special tool basically looks like this:

and the pins fit into the bolt holes of the plate.

Hey, while I was at autozone, I saw this seal puller for $12. I'll be using one like it.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...uestid=2606045

But like someone said, you could pry it out as long as you're careful not to scratch anything.

[jcreme]

Help!

Ok, I got the exhaust dropped and sorta out of the way, the drive shaft diconnected, but I am totally stuck trying to loosen the input shaft lock nut I have the lock plate off, but that sucker won't budge! Am I missing something? A posting on e46 fanatics mentioned to use high strength lock-tite, but no mention on Bentley or anywhere else requiring to heat the nut to release the lock tite. Anybody know?

Another note, some other weird stuff you'll need:
- 12mm Allen key socket for the drain plugs
- 32mm (or 1-1/4") socket for the input shaft locknut (regular, this-walled is NOT necessary)

so far I've spent 10 hours, so be aware of that. BMW quoted me 2 hours, so that was way off. I think they forgot to include dropping the exhaust and disconnecting the drive shaft. Plus I'm slow.

[M3 Done.]

Anyone have a part number for this? My buddy m3 is leaking also.

[M3 Done.]

any one?