[EYEHAVEYOU]

Originally Posted by adykahung

yes, i am able to reach the resevoir without removing the air box, i found a photo that the fitting is really close to a belt, i may just do "simple flush", here is "simple flush" reference. http://www.dvatp.com/bmw/diy/power_steering_flush/ i am afraid to contaminate the belt when i drain from the fitting. i think repeat the "simple flsuh" for 2 quarts of fluid should be enough to change majority of the fluid? or should i repeat more?

also i am planing to use Pentosin CHF 11S Power Steering Fluid, i think it is remmended by many m3forum fellows.

if i change the power strreting flsuh and still can not solve the wried noise, then i may need to check my FCAB.

I also did a "simple flush," pumped it out into a large water bottle, filled with new fluid, turned wheel, and repeated. I used two quarts of Castrol ATF for this, and it solved my problems. Doing more is probably ideal for the simple flush method, but two was all I needed.

That said, I strongly recommend against using Pentosin if your cap says ATF only. My understanding is that some MY M3's say Pentosin on the cap, while others say ATF - use whatever your reservoir cap says. At least that's my understanding, searching for some threads might confirm if I'm right.

When I was diagnosing this, the indy shop I took it to thought it was FCAB at first, so the symptoms can be similar. Definitely better to try the cheap method (two quarts of ATF) before going for the more expensive and labor-intensive potential fixes.

[BostonDuce]

Originally Posted by adykahung

also i am planing to use Pentosin CHF 11S Power Steering Fluid, i think it is remmended by many m3forum fellows.

Look on the top of the PS reservoir cap, if it's stamped ATF don't use CHF.

If you break the seal on any of the banjo bolts on the hoses, it wouldn't be a bad idea to get 2 new aluminum crush washers for each bolt.

I wrapped my belt with small bubble wrap and secured with blue painter's tape. Otherwise you will contaminate the belt.

You can control the rate of oil coming from the banjo bolt if you unbolt it slowly, but there is no obvious path for the oil to drain, so it's still messy.

It's a lot easier if both of the front wheels are of the ground to execute the left to right lock-to-lock air bleed.

It will take a lot of cycles to obtain a full change of the fluid if you just keep emptying and refilling the reservoir.

BD

[JUICINBIMMER]

buy this and your good.

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[adykahung]

I bought 3 quart of Castrol Dexron VI AFT from autozone. i think it is enough to do simple flush for P/S system. thanks for your advices, but i am not taking my risk to contaminate any belts. coz 1 drop of oil can ruin the belt.
as long as i repeat simple flush to cycle all 3 quart of ATF, i think i would flush most of old fluid out from my P/S system.

Originally Posted by BostonDuce

Look on the top of the PS reservoir cap, if it's stamped ATF don't use CHF.

If you break the seal on any of the banjo bolts on the hoses, it wouldn't be a bad idea to get 2 new aluminum crush washers for each bolt.

I wrapped my belt with small bubble wrap and secured with blue painter's tape. Otherwise you will contaminate the belt.

You can control the rate of oil coming from the banjo bolt if you unbolt it slowly, but there is no obvious path for the oil to drain, so it's still messy.

It's a lot easier if both of the front wheels are of the ground to execute the left to right lock-to-lock air bleed.

It will take a lot of cycles to obtain a full change of the fluid if you just keep emptying and refilling the reservoir.

BD

[adykahung]

i completed my inspection II on november 2009, i think my diff. is not the source of my noise.

Originally Posted by JUICINBIMMER

buy this and your good.

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-M3-...aign=postreply