[Supered ///M]

Originally Posted by Sirius

It was my understanding that the light checks done by the OBC registered high resistance or infinite resistance (which is what would happen to a burned out bulb as the inert gas inside the bulb will offer a much larger resistance than an intact filament) as the error. The same is with the case of HIDs as they don't have an actual filament which results in a 'high / infinite' resistance reading.

So, how does adding a resistor fix this?

Also, OP... the last I checked LED's do not have resistors built into them directly. Maybe small ones for the circuit board, but not on the actual lamp.

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Oh, and my 'fix' for my headlamp code (or any other error) is the TEMP button.

IIRC, our cars work by measuring a range of resistances to determine whether or not to throw a code. Too little resistance, in the case of an LED bulb, will measure too high outside the range of resistance. Similarly, bulb out will not measure a current, and throw a code.

OP, the best thing I think you could do is measure the resistance of the bulb using an ohmeter and then work backwards. Wire a resistor in series with the bulb (as previously suggested) that will give you a current reading similar to what you would get with a normal bulb.

One thing I did for my ZKWs (because I use a PnP switch with a relay to activate the lights) was wire a resistor between both + and - wires to resemble the draw on a regular headlight. A relay will draw on the order of milliamps and you need something on the amps to stop the OBC from tripping.

Obviously your taillights might draw a different resistance than headlights, so I can't say for sure what resistance you should use, but probably no bigger than 12 ohms.