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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Fri, Jun-22-2018, 10:16:42 PM   #1
Detailer
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Default Idle-speed control valve, NC Winding

Hi guys,

I just purchased my dream car, an e46 M3!

Car has been sitting for the past 3 years in a garage and has only 28,000 miles.

Thing is, I'm having cold start issue with idle going up and down until it's hot. CEL is on an throwing a Idle-speed control valve, NC Winding. I replaced the ICV with a new one from the dealer, but still the same issue and rough cold idle.

It also seems like in first and second gear the throttle go from 1 to 10% only. It's like I'm in super sport mode all the time. I cannot more forward gently, the car always jump as if I would press hard on the gas pedal.

I don't have any other error codes.

Any idea with it could be?
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Old Fri, Jun-22-2018, 10:50:11 PM   #2
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Default Re: Idle-speed control valve, NC Winding

Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailer View Post
Hi guys,

I just purchased my dream car, an e46 M3!

Car has been sitting for the past 3 years in a garage and has only 28,000 miles.

Thing is, I'm having cold start issue with idle going up and down until it's hot. CEL is on an throwing a Idle-speed control valve, NC Winding. I replaced the ICV with a new one from the dealer, but still the same issue and rough cold idle.

It also seems like in first and second gear the throttle go from 1 to 10% only. It's like I'm in super sport mode all the time. I cannot more forward gently, the car always jump as if I would press hard on the gas pedal.

I don't have any other error codes.

Any idea with it could be?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailer View Post
Hi guys,

I just purchased my dream car, an e46 M3!

Car has been sitting for the past 3 years in a garage and has only 28,000 miles.

Thing is, I'm having cold start issue with idle going up and down until it's hot. CEL is on an throwing a Idle-speed control valve, NC Winding. I replaced the ICV with a new one from the dealer, but still the same issue and rough cold idle.

It also seems like in first and second gear the throttle go from 1 to 10% only. It's like I'm in super sport mode all the time. I cannot more forward gently, the car always jump as if I would press hard on the gas pedal.

I don't have any other error codes.

Any idea with it could be?
Congrats.

Can you record a video of behavior of idle going up and down? How wide is the band?

Did you get a ppi before purchase? Was this behavior noted? Or did you buy it 3 years ago and stored it for 3 years and now trying to get it running again?

Also super sport mode I'm not getting... you say you only get throttle response between 1-10%?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
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'85 528e 164k miles (sold)
'05 M3 6MT coupe

All DIY: 330 ZHP steering rack, diffsonline 4.1 diff with rem polish, E60 short shifter lever, AKG black diff bushings/subframe bushings, Rogue rtab, WPC rod bearings, Beyer driveshaft, full SS (SS stepped V1, catted S1, resonated S2, SS sport), Sachs clutch/flywheel, rear main, VANOS bullet proofing with anti-rattle, valve adjustment, cooling refresh, Ohlins R&T/Swift 448f 672r/GC street tops and camber plates, AFD E85 Proflex kit.

Happy to help with VANOS or any other DIY job around NorCal
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Old Fri, Jun-22-2018, 11:02:49 PM   #3
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Default Re: Idle-speed control valve, NC Winding

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Originally Posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
Congrats.

Can you record a video of behavior of idle going up and down? How wide is the band?

Did you get a ppi before purchase? Was this behavior noted? Or did you buy it 3 years ago and stored it for 3 years and now trying to get it running again?

Also super sport mode I'm not getting... you say you only get throttle response between 1-10%?

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Thanks!

I'll record a video tomorrow morning when it's cold. It's been stored for 3 years and I'm getting it ready for the road again.

I did a PPI yes. Dealer told me what the code was and that it needed to replace the ICV.

What I mean by super sport mode is that it feels like sport mode but more extreme where the throttle is super sensible and that it's impossible to be gentle. Like if the throttle jumps to 10% when I try to be super gentle with it.
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Old Sat, Jun-23-2018, 03:26:45 PM   #4
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Default Re: Idle-speed control valve, NC Winding

the idle issue seems gone this morning, but still have the check engine light on and the throttle being very sensitive and car being impossible to drive smoothly and 1st gear
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Old Sat, Jun-23-2018, 03:30:34 PM   #5
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Default Re: Idle-speed control valve, NC Winding

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Originally Posted by Detailer View Post
the idle issue seems gone this morning, but still have the check engine light on and the throttle being very sensitive and car being impossible to drive smoothly and 1st gear
What happens when you press the sport button? Does it become even wilder? Wonder if you need to remap your throttle response or something.

A BMW specific scanner could help to see what is causing cel. Or maybe you just need to reset it and see if it will come back.

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'85 528e 164k miles (sold)
'05 M3 6MT coupe

All DIY: 330 ZHP steering rack, diffsonline 4.1 diff with rem polish, E60 short shifter lever, AKG black diff bushings/subframe bushings, Rogue rtab, WPC rod bearings, Beyer driveshaft, full SS (SS stepped V1, catted S1, resonated S2, SS sport), Sachs clutch/flywheel, rear main, VANOS bullet proofing with anti-rattle, valve adjustment, cooling refresh, Ohlins R&T/Swift 448f 672r/GC street tops and camber plates, AFD E85 Proflex kit.

Happy to help with VANOS or any other DIY job around NorCal
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Old Sat, Jun-23-2018, 06:24:17 PM   #6
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Default Re: Idle-speed control valve, NC Winding

Car with really low milage thats been sitting for 3 years is gonna need;

New high octane fuel
New fuel filter
Clean MAF
and some driving.

I'd also change the oil.
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Old Sun, Jun-24-2018, 12:01:54 PM   #7
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Default Re: Idle-speed control valve, NC Winding

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Originally Posted by Kurty View Post
Car with really low milage thats been sitting for 3 years is gonna need;

New high octane fuel
New fuel filter
Clean MAF
and some driving.

I'd also change the oil.
Thanks, for the reply. Car was actually towed to the dealer for PPI and oil change when I purchase it. Filled it up with 94 octane the same day and put 100km on it yet. The EML light turned on yesterday while driving and I had no more throttle response. Had to shut off the engine and restart.

I could do new fuel filter and clean the maf, I agree it's a good idea.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
What happens when you press the sport button? Does it become even wilder? Wonder if you need to remap your throttle response or something.

A BMW specific scanner could help to see what is causing cel. Or maybe you just need to reset it and see if it will come back.

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Thanks for the reply.

Yes, when I press the sport mode, it's even wilder, to the point where it's literally not driveable.

I had it scanned at BMW, the only code was Idle-speed control valve, NC winding and they recommended I replace the ICV, which I did. They cleared the fault and it's coming back as soon as I restart the car.
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Old Sun, Jun-24-2018, 11:18:05 PM   #8
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Default Re: Idle-speed control valve, NC Winding

Recheck your codes, jumpiness sounds like the TPS, a little odd at that low mileage, but not unheard of. There are 3 of them. one is right up front, is the connector you remove to get the oil filter out, is subject to the most heat, and fails most often by probably a factor of 3 or 4 to one with either of the other 2. The other on is at the throttle actuator on the other end of the rod the first on is. Third one is actually in the gas pedal.

Also, unless fuel was removed and the engine run dry, I'd put a large bottle of Techron in the fuel per directions. Techron, not any of the others. it is what BMW recommends, and I've had very noticeable results on a few cars.

Let us know what you find.

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Old Mon, Jun-25-2018, 03:21:20 AM   #9
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Default Re: Idle-speed control valve, NC Winding

Yeah, @OP, if you stored it for 3 years, you have to replace all fluids at the least. I can only imagine the condition of that gas, brake fluid, etc as they sit and separate or accumulate moisture and cause problems.

Some of the hoses could have gotten tired and cracked around icv, have you checked those?

Out of curiosity, where did you store it for so long? Indoor/outdoor, what kind of climate?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
__________________
'85 528e 164k miles (sold)
'05 M3 6MT coupe

All DIY: 330 ZHP steering rack, diffsonline 4.1 diff with rem polish, E60 short shifter lever, AKG black diff bushings/subframe bushings, Rogue rtab, WPC rod bearings, Beyer driveshaft, full SS (SS stepped V1, catted S1, resonated S2, SS sport), Sachs clutch/flywheel, rear main, VANOS bullet proofing with anti-rattle, valve adjustment, cooling refresh, Ohlins R&T/Swift 448f 672r/GC street tops and camber plates, AFD E85 Proflex kit.

Happy to help with VANOS or any other DIY job around NorCal
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Old Mon, Jun-25-2018, 01:16:06 PM   #10
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Default Re: Idle-speed control valve, NC Winding

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
Yeah, @OP, if you stored it for 3 years, you have to replace all fluids at the least. I can only imagine the condition of that gas, brake fluid, etc as they sit and separate or accumulate moisture and cause problems.

Some of the hoses could have gotten tired and cracked around icv, have you checked those?

Out of curiosity, where did you store it for so long? Indoor/outdoor, what kind of climate?
One of the hose cracked while replacing the ICV and was replaced.

All fluids will be replaced. As of now, I'm just trying to solve all problems before doing all the suggested maintenance. I have to send my general module for repair too as the driver side door won't unlock with the remote.

Car was parked in an underground parking of a luxury condo tower all it's life and never winter driven.


Quote:
Originally Posted by RedM3/4 View Post
Recheck your codes, jumpiness sounds like the TPS, a little odd at that low mileage, but not unheard of. There are 3 of them. one is right up front, is the connector you remove to get the oil filter out, is subject to the most heat, and fails most often by probably a factor of 3 or 4 to one with either of the other 2. The other on is at the throttle actuator on the other end of the rod the first on is. Third one is actually in the gas pedal.

Also, unless fuel was removed and the engine run dry, I'd put a large bottle of Techron in the fuel per directions. Techron, not any of the others. it is what BMW recommends, and I've had very noticeable results on a few cars.

Let us know what you find.

ADS
Good idea about the fuel system cleaner. I'll try to source Techron in Canada.

I agree, TPS would be possible. What bugs me is that I only have one error code. I'll bring it back to the dealer tomorrow. I'll report when they find what it is.

Here's how it sits in my parking after a 2 days detailing job.


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Discussing Idle-speed control valve, NC Winding in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)