[bemami]

I'v decided to updgrade the stock sound system in my 06 M3 vert. I'm not an audio guy and I need some advice on how to proceed, where to get the equipment from and what to get.

Based on what I've gathered, JL audio 10s is what I think I need. I'm looking for a nice solid thump but nothing too aggressive. Here are my questions:

1. Would you recommend Jl audio w3s, and if so how much should I pay for them - 500 -ish in a box?

2. What would you recommend in terms of an amp for those subs? And a rough estimate of the cost.

3. I have a dynavin unit which I'm told is easy to install aftermarket speakers on. Is that the case?

4. Do I need to dynomat the trunk?

Any advice would be appricated. I'm also located in ATL in the event someone knows a good shop.
Thanks!

[Beans912]

How many W3's are you going to be running? The 10" w3v3's are ~$190 new each. The JL HO wedge box with 2 w3's is just under $500.

As for the amp, the w3's are rated for 500w rms max, so you can run up to that. But anywhere between 250-500w per sub would be fine. If your going to be running 2 w3's, I'd get the HD750/1 amp.

I've never personally worked with the Dynavin but it should be just like any other aftermarket unit. You'll have an rca cable and remote turn on wire, running from the dynavin to the amp.

[dustondo]

I have in all my years of pro audio always used a rms max x 1.5 figure to get the most efficient and safe operating range for my speakers. so for that sub I'd definitely look at running it over the rms with about 750w. The more power the speakers get the less stress they encounter operating.

[Arfboy]

Originally Posted by dustondo

I have in all my years of pro audio always used a rms max x 1.5 figure to get the most efficient and safe operating range for my speakers. so for that sub I'd definitely look at running it over the rms with about 750w. The more power the speakers get the less stress they encounter operating.

What exactly are you basing this off of? There is absolutely no way that providing less power to a speaker causes it more stress (unless you try to compensate for a low wattage output by driving the amp into clipping, which essentially overpowers the speaker). It's true that certain drivers are underrated in terms of how much power they can handle, but such a broad generalized statement that you should always use an amp with 1.5x the speaker's rated power handling is definitely untrue.

OP, get an amp within the JL recommended 250-500W range. A single W3v3 should be more than enough, unless you want to be heard coming down the block. I have a single 10w3v3 in a small sealed enclosure with 300W and it's plenty of bass. Do you intend to replace the rest of your speakers as well? if so, that should be a consideration in choosing an amp right now.

[Zzzsleeperzzz]

^^^ agreed. A single JL 10 sub is plenty of bass for a car the size of the M3. If you want more boom theres also the w6 or w7. Save your money and excess weight by running one sub.

[dustondo]

Originally Posted by Arfboy

What exactly are you basing this off of? There is absolutely no way that providing less power to a speaker causes it more stress (unless you try to compensate for a low wattage output by driving the amp into clipping, which essentially overpowers the speaker). It's true that certain drivers are underrated in terms of how much power they can handle, but such a broad generalized statement that you should always use an amp with 1.5x the speaker's rated power handling is definitely untrue.

OP, get an amp within the JL recommended 250-500W range. A single W3v3 should be more than enough, unless you want to be heard coming down the block. I have a single 10w3v3 in a small sealed enclosure with 300W and it's plenty of bass. Do you intend to replace the rest of your speakers as well? if so, that should be a consideration in choosing an amp right now.

That is actually exactly what I was getting at, which happens quite often and usually results in damage being done to low midrange or subwoofers rather than tweeters etc due to square waves being produced at a level at or near clipping, which essentially is providing dc current to the drivers which given sometimes a rather short amount of time will case severe damage. I'd much rather run higher than rms power to avoid the possibility of amplifier side signal changes causing speaker damage due to trying to make more out of a system than it can actually handle.