[deilenberger]

Originally Posted by FlyPenFly

One question, how do you distinguish between using lithium grease or motor oil (probably will use 10w60 heh) for metal on metal moving parts?

• Lithium based grease = sliding parts. Access to these is usually good with the little red spray tube.
  
• Motor oil = rotating parts (like pivot points where grease won't penetrate)

I should point out - the motor oil and grease will normally last longer than the intervals for using the silicone grease on the seals. I feel once a year with the motor oil should be fine, and perhaps twice a year with the lithium grease.

[deilenberger]

Originally Posted by jhalaby

Very good right up... I will get definitely have to get some lube and try that when I get a chance. I have an 03 1/2 so I think it could use some TLC. What about treatments on the Vert top itself... to clean and treat it ? Do you have anything special you use??

I have the BMW kit for convertible tops - it works well, and has a water diluted waxed based treatment for the top that seems to hold up well (on my E36 it would bead water for over 6 months at a time..)

I've been trying 303 Protectorant on the E46 top. It also seems to bead up water well - but only had it on for about 3 months now, so I can't speak to longevity. The 303 is sprayed on and is somewhat oily when it goes on. The BMW stuff is put on with a sponge dipped into it.

Cleaning the top I use the BMW top cleaner or 303's fabric cleaner. It appears these will not remove the protective coatings.

I have also heard of using industrial strength Scotch-Gard for the tops - it would probably work well (I use is on my real-BMW riding suit where it beads water off quite nicely in the rain..)

[deilenberger]

Originally Posted by amanb

Don,

First of all, thanks for preparing this DIY!



I am not much of a car detailer myself, so what wax product do you recommend? Carnauba wax paste, synthetic wax (supposedly better for rubber?) or is some particular Zaino product fit for the task?

http://www.autogeek.net/carnauba-wax.html
http://www.autogeek.net/was.html

Thanks,
A

If you're talking about the track the top sits in - whatever comes to hand. The big thing is that it is clean and smooth. The wax helps the seal to settle into place quietly.. but I don't think it's too important what wax you use.

[FlyPenFly]

Thanks for the insights Don, much much appreciated!

[Miami M3]

thank you for the detailed DIY

[jhalaby]

This is a great write up and will have to try this to help quiet my window seals, that seem to be creaking / rattling when the windows are up and top up. With windows down no sound at all, which leads me to believe that the seal the window sits in the top is creating these annoying sounds. Thanks again.

[avo8686]

jhalaby- did you try this? my dad's m3 has the same rattling problem. did this helped you? thanks

[jhalaby]

avo8686 -

Honestly I have not had a chance to try this out yet. My battery just died over the weekend and needed to get a new one. I am due for a recall as well as an oil change pretty soon. So I thought Id ask the dealer to take a look at it and see if they can fix the problem. I will let you know as soon as it gets done. I also need to buy some lubs and oil to try it out myself down the road.

[Kolyan2k]

ok. after lubricating everything there is some noises went away, but new windows noise suddenly appeared and it's VERY annoying. windows squeak when completely closed and if i open them just alittle squeaking stops. does anyone know what to lube here and with what?

[deilenberger]

Originally Posted by Kolyan2k

ok. after lubricating everything there is some noises went away, but new windows noise suddenly appeared and it's VERY annoying. windows squeak when completely closed and if i open them just alittle squeaking stops. does anyone know what to lube here and with what?

This is usually the rubber strip attached to the rear window that seals the gap between it and the front window.

Two things to try:

1. Make sure the painted dot area on the front window is REALLY clean - like Windex clean.

2. Try cleaning the rubber strip with Windex also.

If you notice - the strip has a bit of fuzzy surface on it - this and and the painted dots are anti-noise techniques. If the fuzz has worn off - then the alternative is a very thin coating of silicone grease on the rubber strip.. put some on, then gently rub it off with a rag. You don't want to actually be able to see anything much on the strip.

There can also be noise generated where the window goes up into the rubber header above it. Some people have reported quieting it down by using a tiny bit of silicone grease on the rubber.. I've found that CLEAN is good - and keeping the fuzzy surface clean and fuzzy seems to work fine. I just had some noise from that area after I finished treating my top with 303-Protectorant (waterproofing and UV proofing stuff) - some of the 303 got into the fuzzy area. Cleaning it really well and cleaning the glass where it went up into the rubber channel quieted it right down.

HTH,