Replacing rear differential seal?

///m1ka · Sun, Dec-16-2007, 10:23:33 PM

Has anyone replaced the seal between the drive shaft and the rear differential on an e46 M3?

Mine appears to be leaking approx 1 drop per day. I have searched but found limited info.

Does anyone have a DIY link that may assist me?
How hard was it to fix?

I do have a lift which will make the job much easier.

thanks

JeST · Mon, Dec-17-2007, 12:18:13 AM

It's pretty straight forward. Before removing the old seal measure how deep the seal is and use that as a guide when installing the new seal.

1. remove wheel on the axle that needs work. (you can get a little extra room by removing the 4 screws holding the rear sway bar)
2. Inverted torx socket needed (I think its a E11)
3. Remove axle (i used 2 pry bars on both sides and just wiggled it out)
4. To remove the original seal theres a special tool bmw says to use but you can use a prybar just as long as your prying it out within the seal and not the housing for the seal (look at the new seal theres a lip you can pry on)
5. install the new seal to the same depth the old seal was sitting.

If you need more detailed help I'll try and take pics the next time I replace one.

mredwin25 · Mon, Dec-17-2007, 12:48:51 AM

I think he's talking about the input shaft seal

///m1ka · Mon, Dec-17-2007, 01:21:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mredwin25

I think he's talking about the input shaft seal

Thats correct, the seal between driveshaft and rear differential.

Not the axle seal. Thanks anyways, I'm sure it will help someone.

m3keeper · Mon, Dec-17-2007, 01:53:21 AM

Be careful not to change the pinion pre-load. The crush sleeve has already been positioned. Changing this could place added wear on the pinion bearings.

bmwbob · Mon, Dec-17-2007, 01:59:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by m3keeper

Be careful not to change the pinion pre-load. The crush sleeve has already been positioned. Changing this could place added wear on the pinion bearings.

how would you accidentally change the preload by changing the seal... i am a novice on gears and axles.. etc...

mredwin25 · Mon, Dec-17-2007, 02:28:49 AM

Well, I've never done it on the E46 but did it on my old E36 M3, here is how the crush sleeve work (E36), that sleeve is on the input shaft. That crush sleeve is what keeps the proper clearence between the input shaft and the bearing. Make sure that you retorque the center nut to proper torque specs, if accidentally you overtorque that nut you'll crush that sleeve therefore changing the clearance on the bearing and the shaft and you'll have no choice but to replace it with a new one, there is no going back. Mark the nut and the shaft to use it as reference when reinstalling everything. Clearance on that shaft is very crucial and if overtorqued it will destroy that bearing and also the gears, that's how important that crush sleeve is. Hope this helps and it's not too confusing.

jaciuro · Wed, Apr-21-2010, 04:07:15 AM

Has anyone come up with a DIY for this INPUT (driveshaft) seal replacement? I have searched for a while now with little luck.

E46 M3 and it isn't just one drop a day, it's more than that. I have the seal and crush sleeve, just wondering what to expect. I am pretty mechanically inclined, not a master by any means though....any insight from those with experience is appreciated! Thanks people!

jcreme · Wed, Apr-21-2010, 05:56:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jaciuro

Has anyone come up with a DIY for this INPUT (driveshaft) seal replacement? I have searched for a while now with little luck.

E46 M3 and it isn't just one drop a day, it's more than that. I have the seal and crush sleeve, just wondering what to expect. I am pretty mechanically inclined, not a master by any means though....any insight from those with experience is appreciated! Thanks people!

I'm doing it this weekend. Based on my shop manual from Bentley Publishers, you need

An input shaft seal
An input flange lock plate (I'm betting this is optional - literallly )
1.3L Castrol SAF XJ

No mention of the crush sleave, it says to mark the nut and input shaft to ensure it is in the exact same place on re-assmbly

Special tools required are

an inside seal puller
a spanner to hold the lock plate while you loosen/tighten the lock nut
An M10 Torx Socket for the lock plate bolts

The Castrol SAF XJ is $40-60 per liter at all sources I found. Does anyone have enough knowledge to say a replacement is ok? Even Royal Purple is only $15 per liter. Castrol shows this to be a 75W140 gear oil http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp...J_B1174_96.pdf

.333 snubnose · Wed, Apr-21-2010, 06:06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcreme

The Castrol SAF XJ is $40-60 per liter at all sources I found. Does anyone have enough knowledge to say a replacement is ok? Even Royal Purple is only $15 per liter. Castrol shows this to be a 75W140 gear oil

Following a service bulletin, most everyone will use the recommended (updated) gear oil with the friction modifier to prevent the LSD clutch grinding.

OEM fluid Castrol SAF-XJ + FM booster
BMW part# PN 83-22-2-282-583

...and yes, it's about $40 per liter

Sun, Dec-16-2007, 10:23:33 PM	#1
///m1ka Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 329 Reputation: 0 Location: Los Angeles, West Palm Beach, Chicago, Milwaukee	Replacing rear differential seal? Has anyone replaced the seal between the drive shaft and the rear differential on an e46 M3? Mine appears to be leaking approx 1 drop per day. I have searched but found limited info. Does anyone have a DIY link that may assist me? How hard was it to fix? I do have a lift which will make the job much easier. thanks __________________

Mon, Dec-17-2007, 12:18:13 AM	#2
JeST Old Skool Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 6,382 Reputation: 0 Location: Zoo York	It's pretty straight forward. Before removing the old seal measure how deep the seal is and use that as a guide when installing the new seal. 1. remove wheel on the axle that needs work. (you can get a little extra room by removing the 4 screws holding the rear sway bar) 2. Inverted torx socket needed (I think its a E11) 3. Remove axle (i used 2 pry bars on both sides and just wiggled it out) 4. To remove the original seal theres a special tool bmw says to use but you can use a prybar just as long as your prying it out within the seal and not the housing for the seal (look at the new seal theres a lip you can pry on) 5. install the new seal to the same depth the old seal was sitting. If you need more detailed help I'll try and take pics the next time I replace one. __________________ 1988 M3 - Henna/black on black alcantara 2012 Ducati 848 Evo Corse Last edited by JeST; Sat, Sep-13-2008 at 02:05:42 AM.

Wed, Apr-21-2010, 04:07:15 AM	#8
jaciuro When will they learn that the left lane is for passing only? Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 317 Reputation: 0 Location: Tampa Bay - FL	Has anyone come up with a DIY for this INPUT (driveshaft) seal replacement? I have searched for a while now with little luck. E46 M3 and it isn't just one drop a day, it's more than that. I have the seal and crush sleeve, just wondering what to expect. I am pretty mechanically inclined, not a master by any means though....any insight from those with experience is appreciated! Thanks people! __________________ 2004 E46 M3 6-SPD Titanium Silver/Gray Leather StopTech ST60/380mm, PowerFlex RTABs, Streamline Intake Tube & Filter 2005 Suzuki GSX-R 1000 Black/Yoshimura TRC (Stolen!) 2002 Subaru WRX Stage2+Sold

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Mon, Dec-17-2007, 12:48:51 AM	#3
mredwin25 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 2,721 Reputation: 0 Location: Broward	I think he's talking about the input shaft seal

Mon, Dec-17-2007, 01:53:21 AM	#5
m3keeper Registered User Join Date: Aug 2007 Posts: 204 Reputation: 0	Be careful not to change the pinion pre-load. The crush sleeve has already been positioned. Changing this could place added wear on the pinion bearings.

Mon, Dec-17-2007, 02:28:49 AM	#7
mredwin25 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 2,721 Reputation: 0 Location: Broward	Well, I've never done it on the E46 but did it on my old E36 M3, here is how the crush sleeve work (E36), that sleeve is on the input shaft. That crush sleeve is what keeps the proper clearence between the input shaft and the bearing. Make sure that you retorque the center nut to proper torque specs, if accidentally you overtorque that nut you'll crush that sleeve therefore changing the clearance on the bearing and the shaft and you'll have no choice but to replace it with a new one, there is no going back. Mark the nut and the shaft to use it as reference when reinstalling everything. Clearance on that shaft is very crucial and if overtorqued it will destroy that bearing and also the gears, that's how important that crush sleeve is. Hope this helps and it's not too confusing.