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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Thu, Dec-20-2007, 02:47:25 PM   #1
Obioban
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Exclamation e46 M3 Maintenance Thread

DIY guides for pretty much everything on the car

Torque specs for every bolt on the car in picture by car section format

Note: the e46 M3 has TWO weak points, both of which can be locked down for less than <$1000 combined if you DIY. Those are the subframe (foam and epoxied on plates) and VANOS system (beisan). See end of this post for links. IMO, these should almost be considered maintenance items as the cost of failure on them is HIGH.


Part 1: What you should do to keep the car running as cheaply as possible in the long term. AKA maintenance requirements.

First, an explanation of the service interval counter on the e46 M3: Every time you turn on the car the cluster will say either "Inspection" or "Oil Service", followed by a number (a negative number if you've gone over). As you drive, and based on how hard you drive, the number will count down to zero. When it reaches zero you need to do the service requested (oil service or inspection) and reset the service interval. The car will alternate: oil service, inspection, oil service, inspection, every time you reset it. The car is not capable of displaying if you are do for inspection 1 or 2, so that is up to you to determine.

If you follow this thread, you should basically do the following:
new car with 0 miles

oil service at 7750 OBC service interval miles (not odometer miles!)
oil service at 15,500 OBC service interval miles (not odometer miles!), reset counter
oil service at 7750 OBC service interval miles (not odometer miles!)
inspection 1 at 15,500 miles
oil service at 7750 OBC service interval miles (not odometer miles!)
oil service at 15,500 OBC service interval miles (not odometer miles!), reset counter
oil service at 7750 OBC service interval miles (not odometer miles!)
inspection 2 at 15,500 miles

and then start the entire loop again

On my car I do oil analysis on the OBC dictated oil changes/inspections, and run a fuel system cleaner through before the non OBC dictated oil changes. You don't want to run fuel system cleaner before an oil analysis as it gets into the oil and can skew the results (which is also why I do it right before the oil change-- so it's not in there for the duration of the oil cycle). This means I get one fuel system cleaner cycle every 15,500 miles and one oil analysis every 15,000 miles, which is a good balance for me.

Resetting the service interval procedure (the free way):
-Ignition key must be off
-Press and hold the trip odometer reset button in the instrument cluster (left button), and turn the ignition key to the first position.
-Keep the button pressed for approx. 5 seconds until one of the following words appear in the display: "Oil Service" or "Inspection", with "Reset".
-The service due is shown with "reset" if the coded minimum consumption limit has been reached and resetting is possible. If "reset" is not shown, the minimum limit has not been reached and resetting is not possible.
-Press and hold the reset button again until the word "Reset" begins to flash.
-While the display is flashing, press the left button briefly to reset the service interval. After the display has shown the new interval the following will appear: "End SIA".
-The system can only be reset again after 2.5 gal (10 liters) of fuel have been consumed.


Oil Service:

-twice as often as the OBC (on board computer, the count down that appears on the odometer when you turn the car on) calls for. AKA, replace the oil when the service interval says 7750 or 0. Do not skip changing the filter. In fact, it is much more important that you change the filter than the oil (not that I'm promoting that either, but if you feel the need to skimp... just change the filter.) I Use Castrol 10W-60 ONLY-- it's certainly the safe bet, but if you feel the need to save a couple dollars, nobody can stop you. Pictures as to why you want to do them more often than BMW recommends here. Reasons to stick to Castrol TWS 10W-60 here. Note that by doing it twice as often as the service interval counter asks for, you'd actually doing it around every 6000 miles (varied by how hard you drive the car).

-Oil change DIY here


Inspection 1

-oil change (see above)
-Oil change DIY here

-diff fluid:
OEM fluid Castrol SAF-XJ + FM booster
BMW part# PN 83-22-2-282-583
diff fluid swap diy here

-tranny fluid:
OEM Fluid (6mt & SMG) MTF-LT-2 (NOT LT-3) fluid
BMW part# 83 22 0 309 031

-Engine air filter

-cabin air filter

-valve adjustment
valve adjustment DIY here

-chevron techron fuel system cleaner (bottle that treats up to 20 gallons). Try to do this and have it out of the system before your oil change.

-If using turkey baster method, do power steering fluid every inspection. If doing full power steering fluid flushes, you can wait till inspection 2. Use ATF. Brand doesn't matter that much, I use Mobil 1 multi ATF.


Inspection 2

-oil change (see above)
-Oil change DIY here

-diff fluid:
OEM fluid Castrol SAF-XJ + FM booster
BMW part# PN 83-22-2-282-583
diff fluid sway diy here

-tranny fluid:
OEM Fluid (6mt & SMG) Castrol MTF-LT-2 (NOT LT-3) fluid
BMW part# 83 22 0 309 031

-Engine air filter

-cabin air filter

-valve adjustment
valve adjustment DIY here

-chevron techron fuel system cleaner (bottle that treats up to 20 gallons). Try to do this and have it out of the system before your oil change.

-coolant flush (50/50 distilled water and BMW coolant)
DIY here
BMW Antifreeze/Coolant - 1 gallon jug
OEM Part #: 82 14 1 467 704

-Power steering fluid flush. If you do turkey bastering every inspection (1 and 2), you can just baster here. If you are only doing inspection 2 power steering fluid service, do a full flush. Brand doesn't particularly matter here, any ATF will work. I use Mobil 1 multi ATF. Flush DIY here.

-fuel filter DIY

-spark plugs
spark plug DIY here

-RSMs and RTABs (if you have the stockers)
video diy here

-guibo

-tranny mounts
tranny mount DIY here


Yearly (every spring works well for me):

-brake fluid flush
DIY here

-general inspection-- eg cracks in suspension mounts, subframe, check belts for cracks, bent control arms, brake pads and rotor thickness (obviously continue to monitor more regularly if low), etc

-wiper blades


100,000 Miles

-fuel injectors cleaned (you can get all 6 cleaned to new spec here for less than the price of buying one new injector)

-I would do a belt swap at this point, even if they aren't visibly cracking

-Belt-idlers

-FCABs

-engine mounts

-upper timing chain tensioner guide and tensioner

-cooling system: At this point you might want to consider replacing the entire cooling system. If you want to car to be bulletproof, this is the route to take. That said, they are fairly pricey components so some could wait for them to fail and get a few extra value miles out of them. IF YOU MISS THE SYMPTOMS OF THEM FAILING, OVERHEATING CAN QUICKLY TAKE OUT YOUR ENGINE (as well as leaving you stranded). At 100,000 miles, I replaced:
Radiator
Thermostat
water pump
fan clutch
coolant piping

-Other items to consider every 100,000 miles if you true want the car to be 100% reliable (no chance of breaking down):
alternator (least critical as you get a warning period of the battery light blinking before it completely bites the dust)
fuel pump
coil packs
CPV (constant pressure valve)-- you can replace just the o-ring with the one linked below and never have to deal with this again
tensioners, pulleys, idlers
Upper chain guide/tensioner


Clutch

The clutch is entirely driver (and mod) dependent. ArtM3 replaced his at 100,000k plus and it was only 1/3 used up, so don't assume it's going and replace preventatively-- wait till you feel it start to slip.
Update: replaced my highly abused clutch at ~100,000 miles (see below) and it still had at least 50% life left!

Suggested replacement items when doing the clutch (because they're easy when you're in there and a PITA when you're not): clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing, throw out bearing, rear main seal, guibo, tranny mounts, center support bearing, and check the drive shaft joint for play. I would highly recommend doing every item listed there, as they will fail before your next clutch replacement and labor will be EXPENSIVE on them with the trans out of the car. Right now the labor is all buy free and the parts are cheap.

Note: Assuming you don't let the clutch slip before you replace it (scoring the flywheel), there is NO reason to replace or resurface the flywheel when replacing the clutch. The stock flywheel is good for at least 2-3 clutches. This is an expensive part that you don't need to replace IF and only if you replace the clutch as soon as it begins to let go. Clutches are cheap! flywheels are expensive! Don't let your clutch slip!

Battery

replace every 5 years or after a complete drain (unless it's an optima, which you can recharge after a complete drain)



Part 2: Things to keep the car driving like new or better:
(some repeat from above because they do both)


Shocks

Shocks can last anywhere from 30,000 to 80,000 miles, depending on how the roads are where you live. Pothole and the like determine shock life, track use is not particularly hard on them. Lowering springs will also drastically lower their life (the lower the springs the faster they age).

video DIY here

-RSMs (rear shock mounts)-- with shocks

Every 50,000 miles: RTABs, guibo, tranny mounts

Every 100,000 miles:
pre cat 02s
tie rods
front sway bar end links
front sway bar bushings
front control arms (ball joints not replaceable alone)
FCABs
steering guibo
driveshaft guibo
engine mounts
trans mounts
diff mounts (x3)
exhaust hangers (3 on muffler, two on mids)
upper inner rear control arm bushings
lower inner rear control arm bushings
upper rear ball joints
lower rear ball joints
rear sway bar bushings
rear sway bar end links
subframe bushings
RTABs

Maybe:
front wheel bearings
rear wheel bearings




Part 3: Permanent fixes for e46 common failure items

Difficulty scale: 1 is a cabin air filter, 10 is a complete engine rebuild.

CPV
Problem: O-ring degrades with time
Solution: high temp dupont o-ring: http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=369406
Price: $5 for parts
Labor: 1-2 hours
DIY difficultly: 2

RTABs
Problem: wears out every ~40,000 miles causing handling, tire wear, and alignment issues
Solution: Polyurethane or monoball RTABs. Stock OEM rubber stiffness from AKG or stiffer from PowerFlex for poly, Syncro Design Works RTABs for monoball.
Price: ~$100-300 for parts
Labor: 2-4 hours
DIY difficulty: 3

Subframe
Problem: subframe tears out of car after repeated sudden acceleration
Solution: Turner subframe kit. Can be welded in or epoxied in. http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-91...ement-kit.aspx
Alternate/additional: Structural foam (note: no more welding can be done once the structural foam is installed-- repairs or TMS plates!):
DIY for epoxying the plates in and injecting the foam
Alternate/additional: VinceBar style mount point reinforcement, which ties the loading to stronger/wider points on the chassis. This is the strongest solution for non caged cars. The benefit is that instead of moving the failure point, it creates a stronger complete structure. That said, it should be used with plates as well, and as of yet we have not seen a failure on a foamed car.

Radiator
Problem: The radiator is made of plastic and aluminum, which expand and contract at different rates. Over time, this results in cracking
Solution: all aluminum radiator. Turner sells a good midrange unit made by fluidyne that's plug and play, or Zionville sells a top of the line unit.
Price: $400-1000 for parts
Labor: 3-4 hours
DIY difficulty: 4

Coolant Piping
Problem: Over time and heat cycles the coolant pipes get brittle and crack
Solution: silicone pipes. Don't get brittle over time. http://www.rogueengineering.com/mm5/...Category_Code=
Price: $ for parts
Labor: 4-5 hours
DIY difficulty: 4

Differential Mount Bolts
Problem: the stock bolts sometimes snap over time
Solution: BMW updated the part at some point in the M3 production cycle. The new bolts are stronger, and I haven't yet seen anybody snap any. Thread here: http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=345096
Price: ~$10 for parts
Labor: 2-3 hours
DIY difficulty: 3

Rear Shock Mounts
BMW's rear shock mounts tend to fail some time after 50,000 miles, and when they do they can do a LOT of damage on their way out.
Solution: Aftermarket RSM with reinforcement plate. Rouge makes a nice set.
Price: $100 for parts
Labor: 1-2 hours
DIY difficulty: 3

Shocks
Problem: Stock shocks wear out some time between 40,000 and 80,000 miles (depending on the quality of your roads)
Solution: Koni Yellows. These aren't truly a permanent fix like the others above, but they last 2-3 times as long AND they're rebuildable when they need it, so you don't have to replace them. They also have a lifetime (for the first owner) warranty against failure, unlike the stock units. So they're pseudo lifetime parts
Price: $600-1000 for parts (depending on compress to adjust or top adjustable)
Labor: 4-5 hours
DIY difficulty: 4

VANOS lockdown (see below)
Problem: Solenoid solder breaks down, cam bolts sheer, hub tabs crack, slop develops, seals wear out
Solution: Beisan systems VANOS solutions http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu..._procedure.htm
Price: $450 (after core return)
Labor: 8-12 hours
DIY difficulty: 7

VANOS high pressure oil line
Problem: Over time and heat cycles the high pressure oil line (#2 on this diagram, part number 11367837614) that goes into the top of the vanos unit cracks and leaks oil (sometimes profusely).
Solution: BMW has updated the part. The updated part adds an additional mounting point that solves the weakness of the original design.
Price: $60
Labor: 30 min
DIY difficulty: 3

If you haven't already done it, and are at or near 100,000 miles, I'd suggest replacing the upper timing chain tensioner guide and tensioner while you're doing the VANOS lockdown. It's easy now, and probably due.

VANOS lockdown details:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rajaie View Post
Beisan has launched three new products for the S54 vanos. They are a seals kit, a rattle kit with tools, and an oil pump disk with new small holes to prevent the exhaust hub tabs from breaking. There are associate repair procedures that document the repairs. These procedures also document replacing the sprocket sleeve bolts that can come loose on the intake side, the exhaust sprocket hub that can have broken tabs, and the sprocket hub diaphragm springs that have been redesigned to be thicker and function better and last longer.

There are three major S54 failures associated with the vanos. The solenoid coil pack failure, exhaust hub tabs breakings, and loosening intake sprocket sleeve bolts.

Beisan had previously launched a rebuilt solenoid coil pack product to address the solenoid coil pack failure. The failure is due to breaking connector pin solder joints at the PC board. This is caused by a vibrating PC board that’s not well mounted. Beisan solves this by introducing a new PC board mounting bolt close to the solder joints to better mount the PC board. Beisan also injects potting epoxy in the pins housing cavity to better mount the pins and prevent pin vibration. The rebuilt coil pack was also accompanied by an S54 vanos sealing plate repair kit product. The sealing plate between the vanos solenoid and vanos body has Buna rubber rings that fail. The sealing plate repair kit provides Viton O-rings of the same size as new sealing plate rubber rings. The old failing rings are cut out of the sealing plate and the new O-rings are mounted in their place.
The Beisan S54 vanos solenoid procedure and S54 vanos procedure both document these repairs.

The Beisan S54 vanos oil pump disk product addresses the exhaust hub tabs breaking problem. This failure is most likely due to excess play between the hub tabs and oil pump holes. This design was first utilized on the Euro S50 engine. This is the predecessor engine to the S54 and was not available in the US due to high emissions. With the Euro S50 there is .4mm play between the tabs and hole sides. Unfortunately this play was increased to 1.0mm on the S54 by making the pump holes wider. This increase was likely made to help with the insertion of the hub tabs into the oil pump holes during vanos installation onto the engine head. The S54 hub tabs were also lengthened by 3mm and 2.5mm length champers were added to the end. The tab extra length with chamfers design change is also meant to help with insertion of the hub tabs into the oil pump holes. The Euro S50 rarely experiences breaking hub tabs, but this is an epidemic problem on the S54 and can in some cases cause significant damage. The tab breaking could either be caused by a large press force produced in rotating the oil pump disk, or a striking force produced by the tab hitting against the side of the oil pump hole. Inspection of the oil pump holes shows tab indentation in the rotational and counter rotational sides of the holes. The counter rotational indentation indicates tab hitting as the oil pump disk does not rotate in this direction and thus the indentation could not be due to rotational press force. The hub tabs have a 40 RC (Rockwell C scale) hardness, while the oil pump disk has a softer 35 RC hardness. This hardness variation explains, and indicates a design intention, to facilitate tab indentation into the hole sides. The tab and hole sides do not have the same curvature and thus at initial contact only an edge of the tab engages the hole side. With use the tab indents into the hole side and the full tab side contacts the hole side. This indentation technique also overcomes any tab or hole position deviation. On Euro S50 engines the indentation is slight and is considered optimal. Normally running S54 engines also have this slight indentation or a little more. On S54 engines with broken tabs this indentation is usually much larger. This fact is further indication that the tab breaking is caused by hitting. As the tab hits, the indentation is increased. This indentation increase allows longer tab travel facilitating larger hitting forces which further increases the indentation. This scenario perpetuates to the point that the tab encounters large enough hitting forces to weaken and break it. Beisan’s solution is to drill new holes in the disk that reduce the tab to hole side play to .1mm. This is a significant reduction in play and should prevent the large indentations that allow the large hitting forces that likely cause the tab breakage. Some tab to hole play is necessary. This is needed to address any part and assembly variations which cause hub tab to pump disk hole misalignment. Further, some play is likely needed to facilitate the initial tab indentation needed to fully embed the tab into the pump disk hole side and allow full tab side engagement. Current testing of the new disk small holes shows slight indentation of the tab into the hole side until full contact is achieved. This is an optimal result.
The Beisan S54 vanos procedure documents this repair.

The S54 vanos seals are made of the correct materials and are not failing. The internal piston seals are the usual design of Teflon ring backed with an O-ring. The Teflon filler material is a high grade bronze which is appropriate for this application and the O-rings are Viton which can withstand the engine synthetic oil and high temperature.
Even though the OEM seals materials are correct the seals will lose some function over long term use. The primary degradation is due to O-ring compression set (flattening). The piston seal O-rings are under constant compression and over time and heat exposure take on the new flat shape and degrade in their energizing function to the Teflon rings. The Teflon rings will also from long term use experience some material loss. This seals degradation will cause some oil leakage and degradation in vanos function which in turn will cause some loss in engine performance. It is still being determined at what miles and age a seals replacement is beneficial. From initial testing it seems engines with less than 100k miles will not likely receive notable performance improvements from replacing the seals.
The Beisan S54 vanos procedure documents this repair.

There are many components that can cause vanos related rattling.
Loose tolerance valve offsets are known to cause an engine rattle. This is addressed with a valve adjustment.
Loosening intake sprocket sleeve bolts is one of the major vanos related failures and causes a rattle. This is addressed by replacing the bolts with new bolts and applying medium strength thread locker to the threads. The Beisan S54 vanos rattle procedure documents this repair.
Sprocket rotational looseness facilitates parts chatter and rattle. The camshaft sprocket is mounted on a sleeve which is mounted to the camshaft. This sprocket sleeve mounting facilitates the rotation of the camshaft independent of the sprocket to allow timing adjustment for variable camshaft/valve timing. To prevent sprocket chatter and rattling BMW incorporates a diaphragm spring that presses against the sprocket. This dampens the sprocket chatter movements to resolve the rattle while still allowing rotation of the camshaft on the sprocket. The S54 diaphragm spring and associate pressure plate is the same part used on the Euro S50 and S62 engines. This spring was deemed too weak by BMW and redesigned to be thicker for the S62 engine. From experience, utilizing this new thicker spring design on the Euro S50 and S54 engines has resolved rattling. The Beisan S54 vanos rattle procedure documents this repair.
The loose fit of the exhaust hub oil pump driver tabs to the vanos oil pump disk holes facilitates a rattle. Reducing this play resolves the rattle. The Beisan S54 vanos oil pump disk has new smaller holes to achieve this. The Beisan S54 vanos procedure documents this repair.
Splined shaft bearing axial play facilitates a rattle. The splined shaft is located at the intake and exhaust camshaft and sprocket. It connects the camshaft and sprocket and has helical gears that facilitate camshaft relative rotation to the sprocket. The splined shaft incorporates a bearing at its center which allows mounting of the vanos piston to the splined shaft while not rotating with the splined shaft and camshaft and sprocket. The splined shaft bearing has axial play that allows the camshaft to engage this play axially back and forth. These movements can resonate at certain RPMs and cause a rattle. The solution is to remove the bearing axial play. Further, the OEM bearing ring in the splined shaft is made from non-bearing annealed steel. Its inner diameter is experiencing scoring from the rotating bearing components. The Beisan S54 rattle repair kit includes bearing rings that are shorter to remove the axial play and prevent rattling. The rings are made from bearing steel that is hardened and ground to bearing standards. This prevents the scoring. Replacement bearing washers are also included in the kit as they affect the bearing axial fit and need to be provided with tight tolerance thickness to achieve the bearing tight tolerance axial fit. Beisan also provides S54 rattle tools which are custom designed and manufactured and facilitate the opening and closing of the splined shafts to perform the bearing modification. The Beisan S54 vanos rattle procedure documents this repair.

Here are the costs of all the Beisan S54 vanos products.
S54 vanos rebuilt solenoid coil pack, $150 plus $150 refundable core charge
S54 vanos sealing plate repair kit, $10
S54 vanos oil pump disk, $150 plus $150 refundable core charge
S54 vanos seals repair kit, $60
S54 vanos rattler repair kit, $80
S54 vanos rattle tools, $20

Please consult the two new repair procedures for more detail.
http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu...anos_procedure
http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu...ttle_procedure

If you run aftermarket camber plates:
Front shock tower reinforcement plate
Problem: Some camber plates do not distribute the load of the shock evenly across the shock tower, which over time can lead to the shock tower cracking.
Solution: OEM BMW shock tower reinforcement plates. These come from BMW Africa, where they put them on cars that have to frequently drive on unpaved roads. http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-32...ates-pair.aspx
Price: $23
Labor: 1 hour
DIY difficulty: 2

If you run aftermarket rear ride height adjustors:
Rear control arm reinforcement plate
Problem: the ride height adjustor focuses the weight of the car on a smaller area than the stock spring does
Solution: Rear spring perch reinforcement plate http://www.rogueengineering.com/mm5/...Category_Code=
Price: $55
Labor: 1 hour
DIY difficulty: 2
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Last edited by Obioban; Thu, Jul-27-2017 at 08:23:42 AM.
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Old Thu, Dec-20-2007, 03:05:34 PM   #2
Obioban
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Default

OEMs for various parts from Flow's Thread:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flow View Post
What do you guys think about making an OE manufacturer part list ?
This would make it possible to easily buy the OE part without paying the BMW markup.

First, lets clarify the difference between OE and OEM.
OE : Original Equipment. What the M3 came with when it left the factory.
OEM : Original Equipment Manufacturer. A manufacturer that sells parts to BMW but not necessarely the one you are buying. For instance, Bosch is an OE supplier for ignition coils, but an OEM for brake pads (not sure they actually make brake pads). Textar on the other hand is OE for brake pads, and OEM for ignition coils (pretty sure they do not manufacture ignition coils).

I started to assemble some information for maintenance items. Not sure this is going to go anywhere, but here it is. If this gets any sort of traction, I'll keep updating it as I find information.
If there is any mistake you see, or any additional information, please tell me so I can update accordingly.
Please read this with your browser and not tapatalk, as the table view is not supported in tapatalk.

ItemBMW part nr.OE ManufacturerOE Manufacturer part nr.StatusRemark
Engine maintenance     
Oil filter11427833769MahleOX187DConfirmedSame product & company as KNECHT OX 187D
Oil83212365944ShellHelix Ultra Racing 10W60ConfirmedUsed to be Castrol TWS Motorsport Professional 10W60
Spark plugs12120022902NGKDCPR8EKPConfirmed 
Ignition coils12138657273EldorPBT-GF30ConfirmedOld manufaturer : Bosch 0221504470 / Bremi
Air filter13721730449MahleLX 343ConfirmedSame product & company as KNECHT LX 343
Air filter, CSL13722838625BMCNot available directly from manufacturerTBCOnly available through BMW
Oil separator / Crankcase Pressure Regulator Valve11157840446MahleA0 52-1Not available directly from manufacturerConfirmedNot available from Mahle directly. Vaico seems to sell it.
Idler pulley11287841228INA532 0418 10ConfirmedMarking "Made in Slovakia"
Adjusting pulley11281748131INA532 0001 10ConfirmedOE manufacturer TBC
AC compressor belt11287830946Continental5PK829ConfirmedBrand "Contitech"
Alternator / water pump belt11287837898Continental6PK1460ConfirmedBrand "Contitech"
Fan clutch11527831619BEHR8MV 376 733-001Confirmed 
Engine cooling fan blades11521712058ThyssenKrupNot available directly from manufacturerConfirmedD=420MM. Not available from Thyssen directly.
Water pump11517838118GPMNot available directly from manufacturerConfirmedOld part nr. : 11 51 7 838 159. Not available from GPM directly ?
Water thermostat11531318274WAHLER4621.80DTBC80°C
Water radiator17102228941Modine / NRFModine : 1613280 / NRF : 51597TBC (Part nr.) 43/9,4/66 - Marking "Z-N : 1613280". Manufacturer is Modine, but P/N not to be found. NRF is the same company
Cooling fluid83192211191   For extreme cold weather : 83 19 2 211 914
Fuel pump16142229684N/ANot available directly from manufacturerTBCOnly available through BMW
Oil radiator17212228942Modine / NRFModine : ?? / NRF : 31106Confirmed 
Engine support bushings11812283798Lemförder15487 01ConfirmedSame markings on the bushing for BMW & Lemförder
Oxygen sensorSee remarksBosch0 258 003 751 (840mm) / 0 258 005 139 (935mm) / F 00H L00 305 (750mm) / 0 258 005 281 (480mm)ConfirmedBMW Part numbers : 11781743994 (840mm) / 11781406622 (935mm) / 11781405324 (750mm) / 11787832035 (480mm)
Misc maintenance     
Cabin filter643192575043MDP 7100-1137-1TBC (Part nr.)"3M" marking on the OE filter
Windshield wipers61619071613Bosch3 397 001 394ConfirmedEvo flatblade : 61 61 0 037 009 (Downgrade)
Hydraulic belt tensioner11281717188INA533 0003 10ConfirmedComplete belt tensioner part nr. : 11287838797. OE manufacturer TBC
Alternator12317831436Valeo437320Confirmed120A
Exhaust hangers18201401797    
Drivetrain maintenance     
Clutch21212282667Valeo826643ConfirmedD=240MM
Flywheel21212229900LuK415 0175 10Confirmed 
Clutch slave cylinder21526785966   Multiple suppliers.
Gearbox support bushing22322282340   Not available as OEM ?
Driveshaft universal flex disc / GUIBO26112226527SGFBuy FEBI 43496 or Vaico V20-18015 which is manufactured by SGF apparently LK=96MM/12. Not available from SGF directly. The Febi guibo is manufactured by SGF
Differential bushing front33172282484   Made by BMW ? Marking "EKT GE" ? Not to be found as OEM
Differential bushing rearSee remarks   Only available with the diff cover, PN 33112282482
Transmission fluid83222339219PentosinMTF-LT2TBCMTF-LT2. Maybe Castrol ?
Differential fluid83222282583Castrol75W140 Limited SlipConfirmedBMW SAF-XJ limited slip differential fluid with FM booster. Castrol needs the FM booster added
SMG hydraulic fluid83290429576PentosinCHF11SConfirmed 
Chassis maintenance     
Control arm bushings (FCAB) left, with bracket31122229623Lemförder27016 01ConfirmedP/N of bushing alone : 31122229857
Control arm bushings (FCAB) right, with bracket31122229624Lemförder27017 01ConfirmedP/N of bushing alone : 31122229857
Control arm, left31122229453Lemförder27014 02Confirmed 
Control arm, right31122229454Lemförder27015 02Confirmed 
Front anti-roll bar links front31356780847Lemförder17981 02TBC 
Front anti-roll bar bushings front31352229756    D=26MM. No OEM available
Front strut left31312283103Sachs310 051Confirmed 
Front strut right31312283104Sachs310 052Confirmed 
Front strut top mount left31332229165LemförderNot available from Lemförder. Maybe Lemförder bearing only, rest from BMW.TBCMarking "PA 887914" "133271" with Lemförder logo on the bearing.
Front strut top mount right31332229166LemförderNot available from Lemförder. Maybe Lemförder bearing only, rest from BMW.TBC 
Front wheel bearing31222229501FAG713 6494 00Confirmed 
Rear subframe bushing front left33312283573N/ANot available directly from manufacturer Made by BMW ?
Rear subframe bushing front right33312283574N/ANot available directly from manufacturer Made by BMW ?
Rear subframe bushing rear33312283419N/ANot available directly from manufacturer Made by BMW ?
Rear upper wishbone bushing (to subframe)33321092247Lemförder13205 02TBC 
Rear upper wishbone balljoint (to trailing arm)33326775551Lemförder13208 01TBCDiscontinued by BMW
Rear lower wishbone bushing (to subframe)33326770824Lemförder21383 01TBC 
Rear lower wishbone balljoint (to trailing arm)33326775551Lemförder13208 01TBCDiscontinued by BMW
Trailing arm bushing (RTAB)33326770817Lemförder35038 01TBCLemförder has same production marks as BMW. Use limiters for extended lifetime and better toe control)
Rear wheel bearing33411090505FAG713 6492 80Confirmed45X85,05X41
Rear anti-roll bar links33552283743Lemförder27123 02ConfirmedBMW logo ground off on Lemförder links.
Rear anti-roll bar bushings31352229711N/ANot available directly from manufacturer D=21,5MM
Rear struts33522283105Sachs310053TBC 
Rear strut top mount33526779670Lemförder25853 01 Boge bushing. Lemförder part has BMW logo ground off ? Upgrade this part in order to avoid puching through the chassis
Power steering reservoir32416851217ZF TBC (part nr.)Warning : aftermarket cap says to use CHF-11S. M3 power steerings use ATF oil instead.
Power steering rack32132229397ZF2901 601Confirmed 
Power steering fluid81229400272   Bmw atf d ii
Tie rod end link, left32212229367Lemförder27012 02Confirmed 
Tie rod end link, right32212229368Lemförder27013 02Confirmed 
Brakes     
Brake rotor, front left, standard34112229529    
Brake rotor, front right, standard34112229530    
Brake rotor, front left, ZCP34112282445    
Brake rotor, front right, ZCP34112282446    
Brake pads, front, standard34112282416Jurid573185JAS Confirmed 
Brake pads, front, ZCP34112282995Textar2347402Confirmed 
Brake pad wear sensor, front34356751311    
Brake rotor, rear, standard34212229379    
Brake rotor, rear left, ZCP34212282303    
Brake rotor, rear right, ZCP34212282304    
Brake pads, rear34216761248Textar2148704Confirmed 
Brake pad wear sensor, rear34352229780    
Brake fluid83132184843   DOT4 LV. Old part nr : 83 13 0 139 902

Last edited by Obioban; Fri, Jun-09-2017 at 06:56:00 PM.
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Old Thu, Dec-20-2007, 04:05:13 PM   #3
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Don't forget to leatherique the napa leather as well.
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Old Thu, Dec-20-2007, 04:10:48 PM   #4
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Ian, Thanks buddy nice fred!

Do you believe in running the AC in off season months,weekly or a few times over the cold times,I hate to steer away from your major to do's?
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Old Thu, Dec-20-2007, 04:12:24 PM   #5
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thanks, I think this thread will be quite useful
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Old Thu, Dec-20-2007, 04:47:05 PM   #6
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Thanks, Ian, another informative and useful thread
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Old Thu, Dec-20-2007, 04:51:56 PM   #7
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what are our options for aftermarket radiators?

other things worth mentioning that MAY go out before 100k miles are the water pump and alternator

is there a guibo diy? I understand it's fairly simple?

not for nothing but a tranny and diff fluid change every 30k miles is excessive
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Old Thu, Dec-20-2007, 05:06:27 PM   #8
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Question - has anyone experienced a radiator failure before 100K miles? While the E36/M3 was/is notorious for radiator failures - I haven't seen or heard of them being widespread on the E46.

I'd suggest changing the belts at 50k miles.. while they look fine from the back that you can see - once they come off you'll see signs of cracking in the rubber teeth.

Belt-idlers are a 100k item (if not noisy before that.)

Tranny and diff are 50k mile items... as spec'd by BMW. The fluids don't become contaminated with combustion byproducts as engine oil does - so 50K should be a safe change interval ("lifetime" on all other BMW models..)

Fuel injectors don't wear much at all - so I think unless you've experienced injector problems, replacing them at 100k is overkill.

O2 sensors are spec'd for 100k - but many of them will happily keep working well beyond that point without any detrimental effects on the engine.
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Old Thu, Dec-20-2007, 06:30:50 PM   #9
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yea this def needs to be stickied - this is great info
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Old Thu, Dec-20-2007, 06:34:27 PM   #10
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sweet...this is definately a subscribed thread for me
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