[snook]

thanks mvez....

they came with the race car as a backup set....but i've already got a set of alum ones for backups....therefore...half price off....figure someone could use them...and they're just sitting there.

[sickbimmer]

Originally Posted by Cleveland

= Snook & Dan Law give the same type of "hardcore" race/track suspension part suggestions. I.E. his answer was predictable.

What would you recommend? I'm not sure if I should go with steel ones or not.

[snook]

your options are: and it may not be a complete complete list.

gc street "rubber bushing'd"
gc race "spherical bearing'd"
turner motorsports "i'm sure they have both rubber and steel" go to their website
rogue engineering, steel with rubber bushings..

your two choices are aluminum or steel.....why wouldn't one go with steel? other than weight, which is a whopping 2 lbs total.

they're half off fella!

[sickbimmer]

The car a is DD in the summer, Is there a harder or noisier ride with the ones your selling? How much do you what for them? Thanks for your help BTW.

[mabbadgerbimmer]

TCKs are nice as well

[Cleveland]

Originally Posted by sickbimmer

What would you recommend? I'm not sure if I should go with steel ones or not.

Turner Motorsport rear camber arms are made of lightweight aluminum (2.5 lbs. each) but they are very strong. All the parts are hard anodized or stainless steel to resist corrosion. These camber arms are built for long-term durability on the street.

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html..._ID=TSU9940001

Buy the polyurethane rubber bushing versions for a daily street driven car. Buy the spherical bearing versions if you are building a race/track car, and you are willing to accept the slightly harsher ride. That's the only scenario where I would put a hard inflexible spherical bearing component on my car. The spherical bearing type camber arms will transmit more NHV to the chassis, and eventually to the passengers. Oh it definitely stiffens up your suspension all right...but there is no free lunch. You will have to put up with more NHV. (no way around that)

As a matter of fact, stay away from all suspension componants that have rigid shperical bearings including RSM's and RTAB's if ride comfort is one of your primary objectives.

[anomaly]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SPC-R...spagenameZWD1V

spc camber arm, if you search around you could find it cheaper, I don't think I paid more than 150$ shipped. Install is the expensive part, you gotta drop the diff to put these in! thanks bmw!

[GJGM3]

I got these UUC from Sean @ D/A. Based on my research I found the following and decided on these given their quality - there are obviously others as nice:

The adjustable rear control arms have a range from +1.0° to -3.0° range.

Co-developed with OE-supplier SPC Performance, the combination of OE engineering and UUC's enhancements make these arms truly "ultimate".


With so many alternate choices, why UUC?

• Our custom-made proprietary design resolves many of the issues with other brands:
• Aluminum center rods are known to bend and fail under extreme use or after extended use (build-up of strain/weakening). Failure of a suspension part that keeps the wheel in place can be quite dangerous. UUC's chromoly center rods are the strongest in the world, virtually unbreakable in this application.
• The wrench-fixing point of UUC's chromoly arm will not "round off" like the fixing point of aluminum arms.
• UUC's original-style bushing is silent, and does not have the squeaks and rattles associated with the use of heim joints or spherical bearings.
• The combination of aluminum ends and chromoly steel center bar results in a reasonable weight, a balanced combination of mass and strength.
• UUC's stress-relieved aluminum cleavis end is not only very strong, but is also much more precise in fitment than stamped-steel alternatives.

Construction details:
Center bar: plated 4130 chromoly steel.
End components: CNC-machined anodized aluminum for lightness, stress-relieved for strength and durability.
Inboard bushing: high-durometer squeak-free rubber.

[drunk hal]

Originally Posted by Cleveland

Turner Motorsport rear camber arms are made of lightweight aluminum (2.5 lbs. each) but they are very strong. All the parts are hard anodized or stainless steel to resist corrosion. These camber arms are built for long-term durability on the street.

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html..._ID=TSU9940001

Buy the polyurethane rubber bushing versions for a daily street driven car. Buy the spherical bearing versions if you are building a race/track car, and you are willing to accept the slightly harsher ride. That's the only scenario where I would put a hard inflexible spherical bearing component on my car. The spherical bearing type camber arms will transmit more NHV to the chassis, and eventually to the passengers. Oh it definitely stiffens up your suspension all right...but there is no free lunch. You will have to put up with more NHV. (no way around that)

As a matter of fact, stay away from all suspension componants that have rigid shperical bearings including RSM's and RTAB's if ride comfort is one of your primary objectives.

I was under the impression that LCA's w/ monoball's don't have as much of an impact on NHV as something like a monoball RSM. True or false?

[mike greco]