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| E36 M3 (1992-1999) {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm} Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999 |
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#1 | |
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Freedom Under Democracy
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,874
Reputation: 0
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I'm scheduled to deliver the 325iS to the new owner on Sunday afternoon and it's obviously not happy about it. This morning when I approached the car I noticed the driver's door was still open. I didn't think much of it until I got in and tried to close the door only to realize it would not shut at all.
![]() Needless to say the drive in to work was interesting. ![]() The plastic latch isn't in the locked position, it still moves freely by hand and it'll still trigger the window sensor to slide up, but it will not click and lock. What part(s) do I need and what type of job and I looking at? I'm very short on time to get this fixed... ![]()
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Quote:
![]() Founder Of The New Car Smell Club & The Canadian Edition Club |
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#2 |
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Banned
Join Date: Jul 2007
Age: 27
Posts: 15,677
In the garage:
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: White Plains, NY
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I'm not sure about you, but the only time I had this problem was in the middle of the winter after I got a car wash. The door mechanism froze and wouldnt close, and I had to hold the door closed the entire way home. I used a hair dryer to warm it in the garage and then it worked again.... I doubt thats your problem though since its summer....
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#3 |
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TEAM OEM
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,920
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: Los Angeles
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#4 |
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 15,480
Reputation: 0
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You looked in the latch and pushed the hook back? Go look at the good working side and compare to the non-working side.
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#5 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 837
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: Sykesville
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With all their beady little eyes and flapping heads so full of lies....
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///M3 1998 Jeep Cherokee 97 BMW M3 95 Toyota Supra TT 11 Harley FXDWG 09 Kawisaki ZX-6R 08 E90 BMW M3 SSII 6 speed(SOLD) 05 E46 BMW M3 TI Silver 6 speed (SOLD)
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#6 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 478
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: Winnipeg
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Should just need to pull up the door handle then with your finger push the catch down so that it looks like a 'C' instead of an 'O'
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96 M3 X-Brace Koni sport shocks Bosch projectors w/angel eyes Sharked Mesh grill Vaders |
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#7 | |
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Freedom Under Democracy
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,874
Reputation: 0
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Thanks for the help everyone.
![]() Instead of continuing to drive around with my seatbelt looped through the door frame I decided to tackle this problem on my own. After some extensive research I determined my latch was now broken and would no longer lock; the entire assembly would need to be replaced. I called around and sourced a complete used replacement door latch assembly from one of our many excellent local suppliers for $50. Picking up the assembly required an interesting trip on the highway during rush hour traffic and through a sudden summer storm. I managed to complete the replacement procedure in just under an hour and a half and I now have a perfectly functioning door again. ![]()
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Quote:
![]() Founder Of The New Car Smell Club & The Canadian Edition Club |
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#8 | |
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Freedom Under Democracy
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,874
Reputation: 0
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For anyone unlucky enough to find themselves in the same situation: you do not need to remove the window glass or the external door handle to complete this replacement in a coupe.
I apologize for the lack of pictures, but I needed to get this repair done quickly as I need to take the car to work tomorrow morning. This job is tricky and requires a great amount of dexterity, but it definitely falls within the realm of something you should try tackling yourself.
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Quote:
![]() Founder Of The New Car Smell Club & The Canadian Edition Club Last edited by Shock(/\)ave; Thu, Jun-19-2008 at 04:57:41 AM. |
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#9 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1
Reputation: 0
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Shockwave,
Need a little help. Working on replacing the exterior door handle assembly using your procedure. I got as far as step 3, getting the actuator off (top metal frame of door handle assembly broken off). I wish you had some pictures so I can figure which metal bar I need to push out through the plastic retention piece. It looks I'm 1 step away from removing the assembly. Any other thoughts? |
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#10 | ||
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Freedom Under Democracy
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,874
Reputation: 0
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Quote:
![]() You absolutely need to disconnect and remove the actuator to get enough room to work for the remaining steps of the process - otherwise you're looking at removing the window glass. Here's a thread with a side view of the actuator still mounted: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=131544 The picture you're looking for is in step 7. You can just make out the metal mounting plate the actuator sits on and the black plastic tab on the far left of the actuator. You need to use all of your manual dexterity to reach in and push back (toward the outside sheetmetal of the door) on the edge of the black plastic tab while pulling up on the actuator to free it. A thin small flathead screwdriver might help if used as a wedge between the black plastic tab and the actuator casing.
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Quote:
![]() Founder Of The New Car Smell Club & The Canadian Edition Club |
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