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| Faults, Fixes and DIY Please share your experience and knowledge with other members by contributing your own DIY, or by helping another member find the elusive fix! |
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#21 |
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 371
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Is it necessary to remove the entire drive shaft or can you just disconnect and move out of the way?
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#22 |
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///Mike
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 992
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![]() Location: Los Angeles, CA
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no, you dont have to remove the ds or even touch it. If you are working on the output shaft seals, you need to remove the output shafts from the diff.
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![]() 2002 ///M3 Carbon Black / CF interior VF-Engineering Stage 2 ● Tial Q BOV ● Okada Projects ● AEM Water/Meth ● Stoptech BBK ST60/ST40 ● HPF Stage 1 Feramic Clutch ● HPF/Walbro Fuel Pump ● Mason Engineering F/R Strut Bar and Clutch Pedal ● Ground Control SuperStreet Double Adj Coilovers w/ Hyperco 600F/700R ● Treehouse FCAB ● UUC Rear Lower Control Arms ● Eibach F/R Adj Sway Bars ● Agency Power Headers ● CPI section 1 w/ 400cell cats ● RE X-pipe with EVC ● RE El Diablo Ti ● Platte Forme AG Rear Subframe Reinforcement ● lots and lots of other crap...
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#23 |
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Join Date: Apr 2009
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ok so I will need to disconnect the output shaft from the differential to the wheel hub correct?
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#24 |
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///Mike
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 992
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: Los Angeles, CA
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Correct, but in order to get the output shaft to clear out of the diff, you need to remove the sway bar and the exhaust. You should have enough clearance for the output shaft to pop out of the diff for you to replace the seals. A lot of work for a POS seal, especially if you dont have a lift.
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![]() 2002 ///M3 Carbon Black / CF interior VF-Engineering Stage 2 ● Tial Q BOV ● Okada Projects ● AEM Water/Meth ● Stoptech BBK ST60/ST40 ● HPF Stage 1 Feramic Clutch ● HPF/Walbro Fuel Pump ● Mason Engineering F/R Strut Bar and Clutch Pedal ● Ground Control SuperStreet Double Adj Coilovers w/ Hyperco 600F/700R ● Treehouse FCAB ● UUC Rear Lower Control Arms ● Eibach F/R Adj Sway Bars ● Agency Power Headers ● CPI section 1 w/ 400cell cats ● RE X-pipe with EVC ● RE El Diablo Ti ● Platte Forme AG Rear Subframe Reinforcement ● lots and lots of other crap...
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#25 | |
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 371
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What size socket will I need? It looks like some kind of Torx bit but the opposite. Also, should I drain the fluid first before starting or does it not matter? What are the torque specs for the bolts? Is there a more detailed DIY than this one? http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=230322
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Last edited by I M Legend; Wed, Apr-06-2011 at 03:18:51 PM. |
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#26 |
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///Mike
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 992
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: Los Angeles, CA
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it will make ur life a lot easier if you unbolted the 2 allen bolts holding the sway bar and just swing it down.
it is external torx but i dont remember the size. dont know torque specs either, torqued them down by feel, like i usually do. no other diy. sorry
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![]() 2002 ///M3 Carbon Black / CF interior VF-Engineering Stage 2 ● Tial Q BOV ● Okada Projects ● AEM Water/Meth ● Stoptech BBK ST60/ST40 ● HPF Stage 1 Feramic Clutch ● HPF/Walbro Fuel Pump ● Mason Engineering F/R Strut Bar and Clutch Pedal ● Ground Control SuperStreet Double Adj Coilovers w/ Hyperco 600F/700R ● Treehouse FCAB ● UUC Rear Lower Control Arms ● Eibach F/R Adj Sway Bars ● Agency Power Headers ● CPI section 1 w/ 400cell cats ● RE X-pipe with EVC ● RE El Diablo Ti ● Platte Forme AG Rear Subframe Reinforcement ● lots and lots of other crap...
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#27 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 371
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I only need to disconnect one side of the shaft and move it out of the way correct? or do I need to remove it completely from the car including the spindle from the wheel bearing?
OP, what does removing the wheel do? Is it absolutely necessary?
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#28 |
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 108
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#29 |
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///Mike
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 992
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: Los Angeles, CA
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Aight, might as well tell you the whole DIY, so this will be a DIY within a DIY that links to another DIY lol.
For passenger side only. It's a lot easier. 1) Jack the rear end of the car and put on stands 2) Loosen all 4 allen bolts that holds up the rear sway bar and swing it down and out of the way. 3) Loosen all 6 external torx bolts. OP of this thread states its E11 or E12. I dont remember. 4) Using a pry bar, pop the passenger output shaft out of the diff. The shaft is held into the diff by a spring clip that needs to be compressed for the output shaft to slide out of the diff. 5) The output shaft will slide towards the wheel as it slides into the hub. Do the best you can to compress it all the way so you can slide the whole output shaft out of the diff. You might want to raise the wheel or lower to help you slide the output shaft. Just continue to work with it until it comes out. 6) Remove old seal, install new seal, install everything.
__________________
![]() 2002 ///M3 Carbon Black / CF interior VF-Engineering Stage 2 ● Tial Q BOV ● Okada Projects ● AEM Water/Meth ● Stoptech BBK ST60/ST40 ● HPF Stage 1 Feramic Clutch ● HPF/Walbro Fuel Pump ● Mason Engineering F/R Strut Bar and Clutch Pedal ● Ground Control SuperStreet Double Adj Coilovers w/ Hyperco 600F/700R ● Treehouse FCAB ● UUC Rear Lower Control Arms ● Eibach F/R Adj Sway Bars ● Agency Power Headers ● CPI section 1 w/ 400cell cats ● RE X-pipe with EVC ● RE El Diablo Ti ● Platte Forme AG Rear Subframe Reinforcement ● lots and lots of other crap...
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#30 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 371
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Quote:
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