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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.

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Old Sat, Mar-27-2010, 09:51:10 PM   #31
lols
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I just did this, and noticed...that road noise is alot louder than before. Or is it just me ? I'm wondering if something was left out ? Or a step I could have missed ?

thx

e.d.
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Old Sat, Mar-27-2010, 11:27:59 PM   #32
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I was charge $574 for this job at the stealership from long beach bmw. DIY is definitely the way to go.
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Old Sat, Apr-24-2010, 02:09:09 PM   #33
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I just did this on the driver's side door.

I would recommend disconnecting the 4 connections on the old unit prior to pulling it out. I found that the easiest way to get it out of the door was to slide it down to the bottom of the door. Then push the window rail in as you force the actuator out. It was a PITA but it worked.

When putting the new actuator in I did the same thing in reverse order. I would not recommend connecting the 4 connections until the unit is in the door.
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Old Mon, Jun-07-2010, 02:05:30 PM   #34
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Thanx for this DIY..just did my pass side door actuator..PITA to remove old unit..but doable if you move bottom window rail fwd enough once detached.. Dbl check your alignment and i also lubed the window regulator cables while in there with white grease..
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Old Sun, Dec-26-2010, 09:55:17 PM   #35
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Default Re: Just replaced my driver's side door actuator - DIY, Hints, & Tips

Hi all and thank you for this very helpful thread.
I have a similar problem on my E46 coupe (the driver door locks but doesn't unlock; other door , trunk and tank lock work without problems) and I would like to ask you if there's a sure way to know if the problem originates from the door actuator or from the GM5 module.Thank You.
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Old Mon, Dec-27-2010, 04:38:04 AM   #36
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Default Re: Just replaced my driver's side door actuator - DIY, Hints, & Tips

Quote:
Originally Posted by amobile View Post
Hi all and thank you for this very helpful thread.
I have a similar problem on my E46 coupe (the driver door locks but doesn't unlock; other door , trunk and tank lock work without problems) and I would like to ask you if there's a sure way to know if the problem originates from the door actuator or from the GM5 module.Thank You.
I had the same problem you have and the Actuator fixed it.


As the OP mentioned DO NOT reconnect the new actuator when everything is not put back together because once power is connected to the actuator all the windows roll down which can cause a mess if you're like me and had the window rail undone

Also make sure before you attempt to take the actuator out, disconnect the key lock mechanism in the handle.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=600213(Scroll down)
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Old Mon, Dec-27-2010, 09:01:10 AM   #37
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Default Re: Just replaced my driver's side door actuator - DIY, Hints, & Tips

Thank you.
I found that DIY yesterday and already removed the door panel and vapor barrier but my torx tool broke when I tried to unscrew the three T30 bolts from the side of the door (from the actuator) and I'm going to buy a new good tool today and try again.
I also got to the GM5 module and took it out in order to have a look and found some stains on the TYCO relays. Don't know if that matters.
Anyway, there's something that bothers me.
When I lock the car using the key remote, all doors lock. When I press unlock all doors but the driver's unlock.
But, when I do the same thing from the lock button (near the gear shift) in the car , the driver's door doesn't respond at all (not even locking). All other doors behave correctly.
When I say all other doors, I mean the passenger door, trunk lock and tank lock.
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Old Mon, Dec-27-2010, 05:41:51 PM   #38
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Default Re: Just replaced my driver's side door actuator - DIY, Hints, & Tips

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Originally Posted by amobile View Post
Thank you.
I found that DIY yesterday and already removed the door panel and vapor barrier but my torx tool broke when I tried to unscrew the three T30 bolts from the side of the door (from the actuator) and I'm going to buy a new good tool today and try again.
I also got to the GM5 module and took it out in order to have a look and found some stains on the TYCO relays. Don't know if that matters.
Anyway, there's something that bothers me.
When I lock the car using the key remote, all doors lock. When I press unlock all doors but the driver's unlock.
But, when I do the same thing from the lock button (near the gear shift) in the car , the driver's door doesn't respond at all (not even locking). All other doors behave correctly.
When I say all other doors, I mean the passenger door, trunk lock and tank lock.
I don't even remember if mine did the same thing with the interior lock switch, but is the door completely closed when you engage the switch because I think it only works when the doors are closed, but I rarely use that switch so I don't remember...
One thing you could do is get real close to the door lock actuator and when you unlock it through the key fob feel/hear if there's movement. I could hear and feel mine trying to unlock, but nothing would happen. That's why I started with the actuator.
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Old Mon, Dec-27-2010, 07:51:14 PM   #39
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Default Re: Just replaced my driver's side door actuator - DIY, Hints, & Tips

Yes, the door is completely shut.
The sound coming from the door seems to be normal, except the pin doesn't pop up.
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Old Tue, Dec-28-2010, 01:31:57 AM   #40
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Default Re: Just replaced my driver's side door actuator - DIY, Hints, & Tips

Great DIY.

In the picture below, what is the bolt at the top left corner closest to the door pin? I've had to tighten mine a couple of times because when it gets a little loose I get a very slight rattle. I have a feeling when I roll the window up and down it loosens this bolt.

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Discussing Just replaced my driver's side door actuator - DIY, Hints, & Tips in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)