[pbonsalb]

I would not worry about a LTW flywheel on a daily driver. Just choose a proven combination. I use the AA one with, surprisingly, a nonsprung disk and it works well. I had AA raise the idle speed by 200 rpm and I run Redline MTL fluid, which is a little thicker than stock. I have no discernable gear rattle. I drive my car year round, even in winter and we had 10 feet of snow last year and over 5 so far this year. UUC kits are also pretty good and maybe a little cheaper than the AA.

I went the supercharger route -- plus all the naturally aspirated bolt on parts like Shrick cams and track pipe -- for over 400 rwhp.

[fiveightandten]

Originally Posted by 4Dr_M3

Damn you know your stuff....

The clutch thing you lost me on... They old guys I bought my car from had a BMW dealer put on a new clutch slip says $ 1,800 ! So I guess It's not going for a while. so I'll have plenty of time to read up on that.

I guess by March or April I should have
M50 Mani
HFM
Intake ( ECIS if possible ) if not another 3" intake

SO you say no headers heh? M3 guys N/A dont use headers ??
I'm still in Honda mode here..lol

Headers aren't a terribly common mod, no. Not anything like how many Honda guys do it. They flow pretty well. The exhaust system isn't a huge bottleneck for airflow. Catback for these cars is really just for sound, not like on a base model Integra or Civic where it actually yields real world gains.

With regard to the flywheel...

You get a Lightweight (LTW) Flywheel (FW) to reduce your rotational mass, right? Well, the parts you can change are the clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel. (we'll assume the throwout bearing is negligible).

The stock setup is a clutch with a solid hub, and a dual mass flywheel. LTW FW setups can't use the stock clutch. The setup would rattle like hell. So they replace the clutch with one that has a spring loaded hub (like a normal Honda clutch, for instance). The E34 M5 clutch has a spring loaded hub and bolts right up to our cars. Problem is...its heavier than the stock clutch. You're loosing weight by putting in a LTW FW, and you're gaining weight back with the heavier M5 clutch and pressure plate.

The stock FW is like 23 lbs or so. A 16 lb FW with M5 clutch kit will amount to 0.7 lbs of weight loss. Hardly worth it. Next step down is typically 12 lbs, then 10 lbs, or 8 lbs. You need to go down at least to 12 lbs to see any weight loss with the M5 clutch setup. There are other clutches that don't add weight like the M5 clutch does, but on a DD, you may not want to deal with them.

Plenty of time to read up on it though.

[4Dr_M3]

Soo per say If I went with an E34 M5 clutch kit + a Fidanza 8lb FW it would be lighter than stock by 4 lbs ?

I have Fidanza on my DSM *ITR I'm pretty sure they make one for the M3

Thanks for clearing that up for me

[fiveightandten]

Originally Posted by 4Dr_M3

Soo per say If I went with an E34 M5 clutch kit + a Fidanza 8lb FW it would be lighter than stock by 4 lbs ?

I have Fidanza on my DSM *ITR I'm pretty sure they make one for the M3

Thanks for clearing that up for me

Sachs (OEM) M3 Clutch = 2 lbs
Sachs (OEM) Pressure plate = 10 lbs
Total: 12 lbs

Stock S52 Flywheel = 22.7 lbs
S52 stock flyweel + clutch +pressure plate = 34.7 lbs

E34 M5 pressure plate = 13.5 lbs
E34 M5 clutch = 4.5 lbs
Total: 18lbs

You CAN use other clutches. But the M5 clutch is widely used with LTW FW setups because it's; A) spring hub clutch B) bolt on to the 6 cylinder E36 motors C) Readily available

M5 clutch and pressure plate + 8 lb FW = 26 lbs ...8.7 lbs lighter than the stock setup.

[BMWchubbs]

I would like an ITB kit just because of the sound it would make...

[Roland H]

Originally Posted by BMWchubbs

I would like an ITB kit just because of the sound it would make...

CF airbox > ITB kit....

[lowboost]

Well I picked up my latest M3 and I noticed the car had shrick intake manifold and Dinan intake with scorpion exhauste. And I haven't take the dme out to see what software it came with but it sure does pull like fraight train. The down fall is its automatic I do have few tranys around to swap in there and it has the 3.38 rear I believe I couldn't be wrong. H R springs on stock set up. I need to guided in the right path so the forum is all your guys. I guess I need your advice nick. This 99 M3 its finally the right comb and I think I am keeping this one for sure. Ooh its vert estroil blue I know I didn't spell it right.




It will take headers and a track pipe to get to 265+ rwhp and you may need a different tune. If you want 275 rwhp, you will probably have to look at Sunbelt or Evosport cams. Not sure of any kit or tuning available for the Evosport cams:

http://www.evosport.com/product/prod...NG.CAM.M52.201

but Bimmerworld claims to have one for the Sunbelts with tuning from Active Autowerks that makes 310 crank hp (without a trackpipe) -- that would get you pretty close to your goal:

http://store.bimmerworld.com/shared/...t=products.asp

You will spend $3350 to get 265-270 rwhp (using 15% for drivetrain loss). Spend some more on headers, trackpipe and rear exhaust and you may get another 20 rwhp. The trackpipe requires tuning, so if you are going that way, get the software with the kit so you don't have to buy it twice.

Or you could buy that used supercharger kit and get 300 rwhp for $2800 . . . .[/QUOTE]

[lowboost]

I would like to keep it all motor just because its enough and I love the sound of intake roaring through the sweet spring morning drives. Yes I drive for living big trucks peterbilt 379 ex tended hood with 660 cat 18sp. Turbo is wonderful but all motor is adiction that boost can't compare with.

[Roland H]

I'll trade you a 3.91 for your 3.38...