[TomS2]

Track/street cars - what are you running?

My guy is flaking, so I'm taking it to a local shop that will align to my specs and according to the gal who made my appointment also corner balance the car (which i doubt, but I am already within 24 lbs).

I want an agressive street/mild track setup.

[Synenergy52]

bfc has a good thread on this.

I'm -2.0/-1.5 on the front (camber difference god knows why), toe 0

rear toe out .2, rear camber -1.0

[Xiphos]

Look in my DIY thread for the link to the Definitive Alignment guide, and also the Definitive Suspension guide.

[camdinans3]

I run -3.0 camber front and -2.0 camber rear. And then I can't remember the toe but its really small front and then something else I can't recall in the rear but its all on his alignment guide, that's what I used

edit: 0.1 total toe front and 0.2 total toe rear is what im running.
i also like the tiny bit of toe in the front, gives it a little more stability i think. worked well for me.

[das borgen]

see my sig, along with the gangster on skates

[Shaun55F]

Really Rich? Edit-2nd reply....lol

[TomS2]

Q: Ok, so what is a good performance alignment for the street with good tire wear?
A: Here are the specs:

Front
Camber: -2.5 deg (per side)
Toe: 0 (or 0.10 to 0.20 deg total toe in for mostly highway driving)

Rear
Camber: -1.5 to -2 deg (per side)
Toe: 0.20 total toe in (IIRC this is 1/8" total toe in
...
Q. What is a good track/autox alignment?
A. Most track guys already know what to do here, but for general FYI, a good baseline is:

Front
Camber: -3.5 deg per side
Toe: 0 (0.10-0.20 total toe out for autox)

Rear
Camber: -2.0 to -2.5 deg per side
Toe: 0.20 total toe in (IIRC this is 1/8" total toe in)

You'll notice it is just slightly more aggressive than a good street alignment. Any more than -3.0 deg camber and 0.10 toe (in or out) per side can lead to inner tire wear with lots of highway driving.
Some race cars (on race tires) will run even more camber. For race cars, suspension and weight (and usually the track) always plays a role in alignment.

Here is my car on street tires with -3.3 deg camber front, 0.10 total toe out, and -2.5 deg camber rear, 0.20 total toe in.
Notice as the car rolls, the tires on the ground are square to the road.


***EDIT**Update May 2009***

Q. I have camber plates on my 95 M3, but I can only get -3.x degrees max. How do I get more neg camber up front?

A. The 95 M3s (and possibly all pre 96 E36?) have a different front suspension geometry, and can not get as much camber as a 96+. So the solution is to run thin (approx 1mm thick) shims at the lower strut mount to gain an extra -0.5 to -1.0 deg of camber. Couple this with the camber plates, and you now have an adjustable range of up to approx. -4 deg camber. As mentioned above, the shims will bring the top of the tire closer to the strut/spring perch, so you may need to increase size of wheel spacer accordingly (probably no more than 5mm).

The other option is to buy crash bolts that install in the longitudinally mounted bolt at the middle of the strut. This may offer up to an additional -0.3 degrees.

Explanation: The 95 M3s have a different front spindle geometry than the 96+. Thats why the 96+ M3s tend to have a higher maximum negative camber when running camber plates. The reason is because the 96+ M3 spindles tilt the strut inboard farther than the 95 M3s, and is presumably why the 96+ strut hats are different than the 95+ hats. In stock position they provide less camber than the 95 mounts, but when swapped, they provide more camber.

Q. Why believe the author?
A. You don't have to. I'm not part of a professional race team or anything. But I've done a lot of research, a lot of tuning, and a lot of listening to faster racers. I've had my M3 since 2004. Since then I've learned to develop and setup my M3 competitively for autox and track. In 2005 I was mid pack in my autox class. In 2007 I was beating (and getting beat by) national trophy winners. Also in 2007 I started doing time trials with NASA, and held track records at VIR Full and North Course (which will be improved upon!), and got 3rd place at Redline Time Attack - Summit Point (behind two superb BMW drivers). Also became a certified NASA Instructor Feb 2008.
I also drive my car on the street, and can't afford uneven tire wear. I DD, autox, and do track events all on the same tires, so they may not last more than a year, but they are usually worn evenly. I have worn tires unevenly, and it was because I was running the wrong alignment settings (usually too much toe!)

More to come:

??????? What else do you want to know???????

Sooo, I assume folks that drive to the track running between -2.5 and -3.5. Yep, that should do it.

Seriously, thanks Andrew, anyone else want to share what they are running and why they are running that setting.

I intend on standing over the guys shoulder since he is an alignment guy, and not a track guy like i was originally planning.

[propchef]

Originally Posted by das borgen

see my sig, along with the gangster on skates

Which, BTW, makes my computer freeze up for 5-10 seconds every time I cross one of your posts.

Enjoy your posts otherwise. :-)

Thanks

[OahuMPower]

here is what I run, and LOVE it....

-2.3 (F) street
0 toe
max caster from camber plates

-3.5 to -4.0 track (F)
toe ends up being toe out after camber adjustment, and helps with turn in, car feels great

-2.0 (R)
.1 toe in PER SIDE (.2 total toe in)


Toe obviously eats tires, and there is no need for a ton of toe in on the rear. Love my setup, and would recommend it to anyone

[TomS2]

OK, so Andrew is running -3.0 on the street and Calvin is starting at -3.5 on the track.

Since the car is mainly track, and I dont plan on playing with the camber plates much (i am lazy) what do you think of me asking for as close to 3.5 as he can get (95 supposedly cant go over 3.0) and put up with lousy wear on the streets driving on the highway to the track.
Front toe 0
rear toe like calvins .1 on each side

Why the max caster calvin?