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| E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. |
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#1 |
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Registered User
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Need some advice re suspension. I purchased my 2003 M3 Vert SMG six months ago with 57K on it. The car was reasonably well maintained with all oil changes and Inspection I and II completed. I don't have much additional info regarding other work done on the car, I believe everything is stock. I just passed 60k on the odometer.
While installing my summer setup, I notice that a small portion at the bottom of my passenger side rear coil spring had cracked and broken off. I am located in NJ and the roads here are a nightmare so this is no shocker. I am planning to replace the rear springs (or should must I do all 4), but figured I would ask the collective M3 community what else they would suggest I replace suspension-wise given the mileage on the car. Given my driving style and use of the M (daily driver and occasional weekend getaways - no track), I am more interested in ride comfort than A++ handling. I plan to do the labor myself and really would like to keep the total parts expense around $1,000 given financial constraints. Given my mileage, any suggestions regarding (1) what to replace other than springs (2) brand of springs to get the best ride comfort w/o serious impact to handling? Also, any other suggestions on routine maintenance at 60k given my mileage? All advice appreciated! |
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#2 |
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 13,332
Reputation: 578
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The broken BMW rear springs is really going around. My local friendly mechanic friend had 4 BMWs in a week show up for the same thing. It seems no one gets past 60k miles in NJ with a convertible M3 without needing springs. The bottom coil snaps off - and if you look you can see where it was caused by rust starting on the outside, and weakening the spring.
If you're looking for a comfortable ride - 18" tires are more comfortable then 19" (and 17's like my winter set are even better.) Many people report putting Koni shocks on and adjusting the damping down will improve the ride quality. Just putting softer springs on won't - it will lower the car and likely make ride quality worse since the stock shocks will now be bottoming out. I'd go for stock springs and Koni shocks if I was looking for ride quality.
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Don Eilenberger AKA bellymeisterburgermeister and denilegiiiiiiiiiiiiibennnnegerieragher (but that's misspelled..)
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#3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 20,564
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: Obamaville
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Agree with Don - lots of these springs are breaking. Second one I've heard of in just a few weeks.
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#4 |
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zemperaye
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 403
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: San Diego
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I would definitely go with Koni shocks. Stick with OEM springs if you are not looking to do any drop. I would take a look at your RTABs as well, if your springs cracked and broke off, I would be almost sure your RTABs have failed as well. if not, might as well check.
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#5 |
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Registered User
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Okay, thanks for the recommendations!
The consensus is: Springs - go with OEM (willing to consider other upgrades for brands, but don't want to lower due to deep slope entering driveway!) Shocks - go with KONI Check RTABs. What do folks recommend for a replacement? OEM? Again, nit tracking, just looking for good handling/comfort on the street and highway. I am sticking with 19inch wheels/tires as they are in good shape and I like the look. Where do folks recommend I purchase the parts above? I have order from Turner in the past and purchased from my local stealer (JMK in NJ). Also, regarding installation, I was planning to do myself, but will consider having installed if the labor is reasonable as my weekend schedule is always tight and I am unsure how many hours it will take to do the front and back (springs, shocks and RTABs). Thoughts? |
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#6 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 33
Reputation: 0
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Exact samething just happened to me w/ 46k miles. I am also going Konis with new-to-me rear springs.
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#7 | |
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zemperaye
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 403
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: San Diego
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Get the new OEM RTABs + shims. Actually, not sure if you would need the shims with the new OEM RTABs. you might have to double check as I am running powerflex. Just get the parts from tischer. www.getbmwparts.com
RTAB labor is quite costly IMHO (i dont know your financial standards as to what you consider costly, but I am a cheap bastard when it comes to something that can easily be done) RTAB plus suspension install will run over $1000 at the dealership. Going to an indy will run you less. Good luck Quote:
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#8 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 634
In the garage:
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: Alexandria
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Geez, turned my back for a second and yet another thing breaks, this time a rear spring! How in Hades do you make rear springs so cheaply that they actually break in average usage at a mere 50K miles? The M3 is a glorious car to drive, when not in the shop, but the abominable QC and materials durability would embarrass a Yugo.
With all that off my back, until the next weekly part F-up, what about shocks (yes, they said one is starting to seep a bit, not to mention the shock mounts looking tired, and...)? Konis seem to get high marks, but how do they compare to Bilstein HDs? PS Reported this to NHTSA's Recall and Safety reporting page to keep BMW's feet to the fire, http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm. There's simply no excuse for springs to actually break at 50K miles on a conservatively driven car. Last edited by rhumbline; Thu, Sep-09-2010 at 08:48:21 PM. |
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#9 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 399
Reputation: 0
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Quote:
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2002 E46 M3. Voisteiner CF Hood, Trunk, Rear Diffuser and Front Splitters. TSW weels, Nitto tires. Headers (no cats), Agency Power Exhaust, Evo Sport Underdrive Pulleys (Audiophile), Angel Eyes. |
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#10 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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2005 AW/Cinn 6sp, Vert, oem ZCPs 2001 Mustang Cobra (sold) |
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