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| E36 M3 (1992-1999) {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm} Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999 |
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#1 |
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License Revoked
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,644
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: Piscataway
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So, let me begin this thread by saying thank you Bobby for providing me the phone number and Nick for answering my questions. Thanks for not answering the call or text message Cal.
![]() After the weekend of May 22nd when we had the Spring meet and Auto-X session here in NJ, I thought that I was ready to take the car and make her ready for dual use i.e. auto-x + dd. Hence I put together a list of what i wanted with the car and how I would start changing stuff bit by bit. I started off by replacing my stock motor mounts (mm) and transmission mounts (tm) 2 weeks ago. I had read through a lot of threads about peoples reviews etc etc I personally wanted to get some driving time on the replacements before posting a thread on the forum. So, here we go: After replacing the mounts as i started the car, the engine felt as if it was on steroids. It was more lively and more raw in terms of noise. Below 1000 rpm there are vibrations (and depending on the temperature outside the vibrations will vary) but they are almost non-existent as you start moving. As I started driving the car around town I noticed that the engine lag was very very less, the power was on tap instantly. The transmission mounts made shifting more assured, it felt as if the gears were just falling in their place. Honestly, the main difference i felt was due to the MM and not the TM. On highways the engine really awakens and while going through the gears on highway it just feels superb. The Vorshlag mounts are a top quality aftermarket item and I have no complaints about them and how they make the car feel. In my particular case I have 2 things that I noticed: 1. When the velocity of the car is less (e.g. 25 ~ 35 mph) and pulling the car in higher a gear (e.g. 3rd or 4th) the vibrations are more. Perfect e.g. being :- you see a stop light as you slow the car down the light turns green, and you just start pulling the car in a higher gear but your velocity is low. Is this normal? 2. On a highway when I am doing 65~75 and as i let go the throttle as the engine rpm starts to wind down, between 2000 rpm to 2500 rpm i get a judder/vibration momentarily and then it goes away (it stays for may be 5 secs). Are people running stiffer TM & MM's feeling the same thing? It would be great if someone could actually do a test for me. 3. For some reason I also feel that the additional vibrations are not good for the front sub-frame and not sure if they might lead to the OPN failure or not. Yes, I did torque them properly. I thought that my mind would get used to it, infact I already love how everything feels and I have no complaints about the vibrations below 1000 rpm (this is normal) the only concerns are the above mentioned points. This is my 3rd week on them and I have started to think may be i should go back to Stock MM's and stay with Vorshlag TM's...! some pictures... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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Last edited by Aavi; Wed, Jun-16-2010 at 03:09:45 PM. |
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#2 |
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Banned
Join Date: Jul 2007
Age: 27
Posts: 15,677
In the garage:
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: White Plains, NY
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Nice! Glad it all worked out!
I would have chatted but I was working the auto-x course. Glad to help in any way I can though! |
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#3 |
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Music is like candy - you throw away all the rappers.
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How long did it take to swap the motor mounts? Tough?
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#4 |
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95 SC M3
Join Date: Aug 2005
Age: 56
Posts: 3,505
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: Eldersburg, MD
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Noise and vibration with solid motor mounts? How could that be? Oh never mind, THEY ARE RACE CAR PARTS. What did you expect?
You are exactly correct in thinking that they might be bad for the subframe. That's why RACE cars are inspected and repaired OFTEN...
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No matter where you go, there you are! |
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#5 |
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Oh no you d'nt!
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 837
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: Buffalo, NY
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While these look great, I think they may be too extreme for my street only application. So who makes a slightly less stiff (read: better than oem) engine mount. I want to get new mounts that are an upgrade. Anyone have experience with Bimmerworld's?
Sorry for jack btw.
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"Its not who we are underneath, but what we do that defines us." Upgrades: AA Gen III, AA track pipe, AA tune, H&R Sports, blown Bilsteins, TMS aluminum RSMs, UUC tranny mounts(red), UUC sways, TMS RTABs, M50, CAI, 10mm front spacers, X-brace, Brembo/Hawk, SS brake lines, ltw flywheel/JB clutch, CDV delete, Alpine HU Coming soon: Powerflex subframe bushings, RE RSMs, UUC RTABS, Koni's, AA diff support bracket, new diff mounts, AA 3.5" CAI, Euro 3.5" HFM, Bimmerworld 3.5'-3" elbow, UUC SSK/DSSR, 140a alternator, 6000K HID heads and fogs... |
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#6 |
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:FACEPALM:
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 26,499
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: San Diego
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Whats your point Aavi
![]() Race car parts require race car reinforcements, and more inspections. GREAT parts, but you give up a lot for them. I dont know of any "tweener" parts, from OEM to poly. |
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#7 |
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Music is like candy - you throw away all the rappers.
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Go to AKG for all your bushing needs.
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#8 | ||
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License Revoked
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,644
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: Piscataway
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I would say if you plan everything out (PB Blast the nuts and soak them for half hour) and the right tools. It should take around 3 hours or less.
I followed the DIY on bimmerdiy, but instead of lifting the engine from the oil pan used a brace as you can see. But basically once you start working on it you will figure out the steps. This was my first time doing it. Quote:
These are not Solid MM firstly, they are poly 95A durometer rating, obviously stiffer then rubber. The next stiffest ones which Vorshlag makes are Nylon MM's and they mention that 95A's can be used for dual purpose for a more focused feel, whereas Nylon MM's are strictly race only. I guess I found the 95A a bit stiffer to my liking, but I've learned my lesson here. I am not upset at all though Quote:
I tried pressing both with my fingers and surprisingly I was able to squeeze the 80A material, the 95A material is rock solid. Which makes me think that AKG 80A MM might be a good choice for a street application. I am considering them or going back to stocker's.
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Last edited by Aavi; Wed, Jun-16-2010 at 02:40:27 PM. |
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#9 |
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Broken My Wallet
Join Date: Aug 2008
Age: 28
Posts: 2,362
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: Atlanta
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What a surprise... Richard is cutting someone down to feel good about himself.
The AKG 80A are great! I am using them and they are exactly what I would want in terms of stiffness but not too much NVH (for me).
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~Joe
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#10 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Jul 2007
Age: 27
Posts: 15,677
In the garage:
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: White Plains, NY
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Quote:
![]() Definitely a knowledgeable member, but his enormous ego leaves much to be desired. I thought you had the AKG 80A's. How's the NVH compared to what Aavi has described? |
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