[Aavi]

Originally Posted by ///Nick

This is on my list to do. Mine is getting loud. Did anyone replace the spring that is pictured too (#6)? I am thinking about it.

You don't need to, a spring does not loose it's properties unless it's stretched beyond it's limits. Re use the old one and call it a day.

[das borgen]

Originally Posted by ///Nick

This is on my list to do. Mine is getting loud. Did anyone replace the spring that is pictured too (#6)? I am thinking about it.

that spring is one time use...if you remove, it'll disitegrate.....replace it

[///Nick]

Originally Posted by Aavi

You don't need to, a spring does not loose it's properties unless it's stretched beyond it's limits. Re use the old one and call it a day.

Originally Posted by das borgen

that spring is one time use...if you remove, it'll disitegrate.....replace it

Now I am confused. Two different answers, I think?

So I will ask, when the clutch pedal is removed is it difficult to remove the spring and replace? I am assuming not after watching Nick's video. For $1.28 I will just replace it while I am in there, just because.

[das borgen]

Originally Posted by ///Nick

Now I am confused. Two different answers, I think?

So I will ask, when the clutch pedal is removed is it difficult to remove the spring and replace? I am assuming not after watching Nick's video. For $1.28 I will just replace it while I am in there, just because.

that s a buck-twenty-eight you'll never see again.................. don t replace it, it's fine. Even it s that s cheap, it s just stupid to replace things for no other good reason than to replace it for the sake of replacing it...but it s your money. Would you replace an electrical connector (they're just as cheap) just because you're replacing the part it connects to?

[OJ_E36]

so i have my new pedal and akg bushings..... who in socal wants to install them for me?? $?

[hencini]

Originally Posted by OJ_E36

so i have my new pedal and akg bushings..... who in socal wants to install them for me?? $?

Drive out to Mad-town and I'll do 'em for a six pack... Just be sure to leave your summer tires at home...

[haus]

Holy thread revival, I guess, but as this is fresh in my memory:

I finally got around to this project this weekend, inspired by Nitram. I had the AKG bushings and a new pedal sitting on the shelf for a year, dreading the job because I've read people say it's hard on your back, which is a red flag for me.

First of all, it's a much easier job than I expected. Seriously...I can't believe I didn't do this sooner. I'd say it took me a couple of hours and that included watching Nick's video, reading some posts about it, and studying the parts diagrams. I work very slowly too the first time around.

Also first of all (it's that important), watch Nick's video.

BMW E36 Clutch Pedal Bushing install video - YouTube

BMW E36 Clutch Pedal Bushing install video - YouTube

As he points out, this is the "no zip tie" method of working on the pedal, and it worked perfectly for me as he described it. Kudos to Nick (again) for that.

People say it helps to remove the seat, work upside-down, feet up in the air, etc. - I know I'm not a huge guy but personally I found none of that necessary. Park in a wide spot, open the drivers' door all the way, move the seat back all the way, and kneel on a towel outside the car. There are a few times you'll prop yourself up on your elbows for a while, but that's it.

Pull the kick panel and knee bolster. I pulled the air vent to help open things up.

Remove the 10mm bolt above/behind the master cylinder per Nick's video. It's also the top mounting bolt of the master cylinder. The nut is welded on the bracket on the other side, so you don't even have to worry about losing the nut. I had to unscrew the bolt all the way, since once the threads caught on the m/c (which is now loose) there was some pressure there that prevented me from just pulling the bolt completely free. The 2nd clutch switch comes off a bracket on the bolt-side as well, but it's obvious how it fits back on due to the pedal design.

The brackets with the switches pull away. As Nick says, don't remove anything electrical. The wires are plenty long to shove both of them out of the way, switches and all.

Put latex / nitrile gloves on. This is a greasy and dirty job.

Get your camera up there and take a picture of the spring mechanism and particularly how the pieces at the top of the spring fit into the pedal bracket. 20-20 hindsight...

Release the spring clip on the master cylinder post and gently push the post through. You may need to wiggle the master cylinder and pedal a bit until there's no pressure on the post, but it's not hard. Hold the pedal steady after the post drops.

Move your hand over and hold the top of the spring assembly and slowly pull the pedal toward you. The spring will expand until there's no more tension on it. Then the pieces will pull from the bracket; they are simply held there by the spring tension. Some may stick because of all the grease, and they may drop a few seconds later...and you won't know how they originally fit together, hence the photo you should have taken earlier. Or you can study the parts diagrams after the fact like me.

From the top of the spring, remove the plastic 2 pronged fork piece, the metal right angle piece with hole in the center, and the spring itself. The plastic guide post stays on the pedal for now.

Now you're ready to pull the pedal. Pull the clip on the main post (very top, where the bushings go). This is where any play in the bushings will be very obvious (see the video below). Slide the old pedal out toward the drivers' door.

You should replace the clutch pedal too, since it's cheap. Install your AKG Delrin bushings in the new pedal. I put a little bit of grease on them and I had to press them into the pedal with a vise.

Transfer the plastic spring guide post from the old pedal to the new pedal (it uses the same spring clip and post like everything else here).

Install the new pedal onto the clutch bracket in the car. This was the hardest part. The first bushing went in OK (it was hard, but you can get leverage against the bracket and squeeze with hand pressure). I got halfway and the pedal stopped moving. No matter how hard I squeezed, I couldn't get the pedal all the way onto the post. I took it out, thought about Dremeling the inside of the bushing, then decided to try again. Luckily the second time worked - wiggling, moving the pedal up and down, and constant pressure on the pedal worked.

Install the clip on the upper post and the pedal is secure.

Grab the post for the master cylinder and have it ready. Put the spring assembly back together and work it into place in the main bracket just like it was before. Remember, spring tension holds everything in place, so keep a little pressure on the pedal with one hand. Slide the master cylinder post into place and put the spring clip on.

Finally put the switches and brackets back into place, and screw in the 10mm bolt through the master cylinder. You're done.

My car is pretty low mileage and even partway into the project I was questioning whether I should even do this; my pedal didn't seem like it had much play. I was so wrong. Here's a shot showing the new pedal with Delrin bushings (left, obviously) and the old pedal with OEM original bushings:



A short video showing the play in the pedal when the linkage to the master cylinder and spring were all removed vs. the new pedal setup:

E36 M3 Clutch Bushings - YouTube

E36 M3 Clutch Bushings - YouTube

Bottom line, the new pedal feels amazing. What a difference! I think there are few things that you could do for under $50 with a few hours' work that would make such a difference in how the car feels.

Unfortunately the boot at the top of my master cylinder is cracked (the rubber is pretty old) and there is some clear fluid weeping out, so I may have a new master cylinder in my near future, but that's another story.

[cmcon98]

The job is super easy. I did mine in about an hour total. The only caveat is that even though I replaced the entire pedal, plus every single ancillary spring, guide, plunger, clip, and bushing, used AKG delrin bushings and followed instructions to the letter, my pedal still leans a little. Pedal feel is much better, but lets face it. Plastic clutch pedals are just a really really cheap component when you're talking about a BMW that was the top of the 3-series line in the '90s.

[cscat87]

Aren't most people going with Mason pedals now? I'm sure that wasn't even an option when this thread was made...

And what are the pros and cons of Delrin vs Copper bushings?

[haus]

Originally Posted by cscat87

Aren't most people going with Mason pedals now? I'm sure that wasn't even an option when this thread was made...

I looked it up. I see one that's $245...I'm ok with $30. And they put OEM bushings in that kit so you should buy new bushings anyway.

And what are the pros and cons of Delrin vs Copper bushings?

No idea. I think the answer here is (for the bushings) "anything but OEM". For the pedals, go where your budget or desire takes you. Delrin is a slippery material so it makes sense to me. Metal on metal doesn't sit well with me, where there's a fit this tight and grease has a hard time getting (or staying) in there.