[ccaarmerciill]

Originally Posted by OahuMPower

how much of the labor did u do yourself though?


I've got 2 other local friends who do "side" work, and we've all talked.

If you want to drop off the car at any of our houses, and pick it up done, the RTAB pockets are going to cost you about $350 for both sides. Most shops in our area are charging $550-$700.

Anything else "while we are in there" obviously would change that price.

If you are comn over to do a lot of the labor, and I'm just providing the garage/tools, and then I do the welding, thats completely different as well.

Just some more information on pricing.

Whoever wants to charge you $1200 is out of their fcuking mind

The shop had that $1,200 quoted involving the rear subframe reinforcements... I corrected him (I don't own an E46 anymore), and said JUST the RTAB reinforcements not subframe. Updated quote was $4-500 and this is from the shop that has done similar work before (they have done countless subframe reinforcements on E46's) and $3-400 from a shop that's not familiar with these jobs. I think I'll pay the extra $100 for a shop that is more familiar with these cars. They'll be very familiar with replacing the bushings as well...

[das borgen]

there's no special thing about doing RTABs in terms of it being just another bushing......A shop will have seen all kinds and a BMW RTAB should be no challenge to any shop that s ever done any suspension bushing on any car

[ccaarmerciill]

Mine were finished up last night... looks like good work. They were local go to guys for the E46 rear subframe reinforcements and fixes before BMW started covering it. Pruven Performance in Milford, CT. New OEM Z4 RTAB's with limiters, feels like a whole new car .

I'll try to grab some better pictures of it all together once my car is off the ground in my garage again.







It's awesome peace of mind... front shock mounts reinforced, rear shock mounts reinforced, RTAB's reinforced. Diff bolt is on there good, my next big project before my x country drive is going to be oil pump nut, vanos rebuild, shrick cam, and a new differential most likely since mine is starting to make tinging noises from stops lately. (backed out bolts)

[OahuMPower]

looks good... make sure you think about the AKG swaybar mount reinforcements if you upgrade the rear swaybar or if you have the subframe dropped for some reason

[shaeff]

Is that just stitch welded around the exterior, along with the rosette welds?

Can't tell very well from the undercoating applied, but the rosette welds don't look complete to me, and it also doesn't look like they went around the threaded bungs either, which is crucial, in my opinion.

Also, the furthest piece back in the last pic doesn't look like it's sitting flush with the threaded insert/bung, but maybe that's just the angle?

I'm no welder, but for "go-to" guys for the e46 deal, I expected better welds.

/debbie downer

[OahuMPower]

Originally Posted by shaeff

Is that just stitch welded around the exterior, along with the rosette welds?

Can't tell very well from the undercoating applied, but the rosette welds don't look complete to me, and it also doesn't look like they went around the threaded bungs either, which is crucial, in my opinion.

Also, the furthest piece back in the last pic doesn't look like it's sitting flush with the threaded insert/bung, but maybe that's just the angle?

I'm no welder, but for "go-to" guys for the e46 deal, I expected better welds.

/debbie downer

good eye

completely agree on everything you said there. I didnt even really look. I just "ass"umed it would be done correctly....

CCAARMERCIILL.... go back to the shop, and have them finish welding that properly. Thats pretty half assed

[shaeff]

Thanks.

If you really want to get picky, it looks like they didn't weld hot enough on the outer face (closest to the eye in the pictures) because the welds look quite high (beaded up) which is a by-product of welding too cold (no penetration), or having the wire speed too high for the travel speed of your hand.

From my limited welding experience (about a year's worth of self-taught and lots of video watching LOL), I'd say they didn't weld quite hot enough. I'd like to see pics of the welds before undercoat was applied, if you have any.

[ccaarmerciill]

Just got there as it was drying. It is just the angle, all the plates sit flush with the bungs (the purpose of the plates). I will raise the concern with the heat of the welds... That's definitely not good. Thanks

Edit: had a few other people take a look at it and they said it is a little on the cool side, but on a job like that welding a thick plate to thin sheet metal you need to err on the cool side a little to avoid burn through. I'm told the amount of actual welds around the plate are more than
enough even being a little cold. Ill keep a close eye on it over time, maybe ill have it touched up when It's time
For new RTAB's.