info request: A/C removal DIY

delirium45 · Sun, Sep-19-2010, 02:07:51 AM

anyone have any information on or DIY for removing the A/C from our cars ?

i plan to do it this winter when i prep the car for the cage build.

thank in advance !

wrcdave · Sun, Sep-19-2010, 03:19:51 PM

Its very straight forward. I would recommend bringing the car to the dealer to remove the freon and in exchange have them give you a free oil change or something similar because they can resell it. It will also be better for the environment. After that just remove the front bumper and remove the oem aux fan and a/c condensor and install a spal fan. When you remove the compressor be sure not to leave it upside down as the oil can leak out. The a/c lines are a piece of cake and you will have to remove the passenger front plastic wheel well to get rid of the receiver/drier which cannot be reused so toss it. Its also a good time to remove the washer tank, horns and install brake ducts if you don't already have them. I would recommend leaving the heater core in the car not so much for heat but to help prevent overheating issues. The guys that remove the heater core lose about 3-4 quarts of coolant capacity which will effect cooling temps on the track. You don't have to remove the radiator at all. If it's a track only car I would strongly recommend ditching the stock mechanical fan as if it breaks apart you will damage a lot of engine compartment parts. The spal fan is more than enough, just wire in an overide switch so you can turn it on/off after each session or when in the hot pits. Good luck!

delirium45 · Sun, Sep-19-2010, 11:23:04 PM

thanks Dave,

are you suggesting installing an electric pusher fan in addition to replacing the fan/clutch with a puller ?
i've already replaced my puller with an electric one, but was hoping to clear the path to the radiator by not having a pusher (or a/c condenser).

wrcdave · Mon, Sep-20-2010, 01:59:10 AM

Either a pusher or puller spal works the same. I did a pusher so I could free up space between the radiator and engine to make it easier to work on things.

delirium45 · Mon, Sep-20-2010, 08:09:11 PM

thanks very much Dave, big help.

btw; did you see any improvement in water temps after you removed your A/C as it cleans up the path to the radiator considerably.

wrcdave · Sat, Sep-25-2010, 03:55:26 PM

The oem analog gauge is not very good so I didn't notice any change. I'm sure it helped airflow now that the a/c is gone but I need a digital gauge to know for sure. Add that to the list too.

delirium45 · Sat, Sep-25-2010, 03:59:26 PM

good idea, yea, i'm looking at getting 'real' water and oil temp + oil pressure gauges, rather than settling for the stock 'estimometer' gauges.

delirium45 · Fri, Oct-22-2010, 10:33:38 PM

In case anyone was wonder what the benefits are to removing your a/c system on track-only cars.

Here's a pictoral view...

before:
Aux fan, shroud, a/c condenser fully covering/blocking the radiator.

after:
just power steering cooler (two tube+fins you see in the kidneys) in front of the radiator now.

with bumper replaced...

weigh reduction off the front end of the car... ~48 lbs !
(condenser, compressor, dryer, lines, belt and tensioner, aux fan and shroud)

i weighed this bucket of removed parts at 52.2 lbs, it included the above items and: cabin air filter and housing + EGR pump and valve.

hope to give this a try in the next week or two.

PolarBear · Fri, Oct-22-2010, 11:57:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by delirium45

In case anyone was wonder what the benefits are to removing your a/c system on track-only cars.

Here's a pictoral view...

before:
Aux fan, shroud, a/c condenser fully covering/blocking the radiator.

after:
just power steering cooler (two tube+fins you see in the kidneys) in front of the radiator now.

with bumper replaced...

weigh reduction off the front end of the car... ~48 lbs !
(condenser, compressor, dryer, lines, belt and tensioner, aux fan and shroud)

i weighed this bucket of removed parts at 52.2 lbs, it included the above items and: cabin air filter and housing + EGR pump and valve.

hope to give this a try in the next week or two.

Awesome work and good info!! May do this in the future but need my a/c at the mo.

Just out of interest don t suppose you know if the aux fan should run constantly ie after engine start to shutdown no matter what temp the engine is or if the a/c is on or not? Think I may have a problem.

delirium45 · Sat, Oct-23-2010, 12:10:25 AM

hmm, i'm not sure... and clearly i cannot go and test it for you now... lol.

anyone else know ?

Sun, Sep-19-2010, 02:07:51 AM	#1
delirium45 Bottom Feeder Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 1,560 Reputation: 0 Location: Longmont, CO	info request: A/C removal DIY anyone have any information on or DIY for removing the A/C from our cars ? i plan to do it this winter when i prep the car for the cage build. thank in advance ! __________________ _ Garrett 2011 Rocky Mountain Region GTS4 champion & "Rookie of the Year" 2012 Rocky Mountain Region GTS3 champion Thanks Sponsors: SCR Performance

Sun, Sep-19-2010, 03:19:51 PM	#2
wrcdave Mr. Chicken rules! Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 607 In the garage: '02 BMW M3 Reputation: 0 Location: Long Island	Its very straight forward. I would recommend bringing the car to the dealer to remove the freon and in exchange have them give you a free oil change or something similar because they can resell it. It will also be better for the environment. After that just remove the front bumper and remove the oem aux fan and a/c condensor and install a spal fan. When you remove the compressor be sure not to leave it upside down as the oil can leak out. The a/c lines are a piece of cake and you will have to remove the passenger front plastic wheel well to get rid of the receiver/drier which cannot be reused so toss it. Its also a good time to remove the washer tank, horns and install brake ducts if you don't already have them. I would recommend leaving the heater core in the car not so much for heat but to help prevent overheating issues. The guys that remove the heater core lose about 3-4 quarts of coolant capacity which will effect cooling temps on the track. You don't have to remove the radiator at all. If it's a track only car I would strongly recommend ditching the stock mechanical fan as if it breaks apart you will damage a lot of engine compartment parts. The spal fan is more than enough, just wire in an overide switch so you can turn it on/off after each session or when in the hot pits. Good luck! __________________

Sun, Sep-19-2010, 11:23:04 PM	#3
delirium45 Bottom Feeder Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 1,560 Reputation: 0 Location: Longmont, CO	thanks Dave, are you suggesting installing an electric pusher fan in addition to replacing the fan/clutch with a puller ? i've already replaced my puller with an electric one, but was hoping to clear the path to the radiator by not having a pusher (or a/c condenser). __________________ _ Garrett 2011 Rocky Mountain Region GTS4 champion & "Rookie of the Year" 2012 Rocky Mountain Region GTS3 champion Thanks Sponsors: SCR Performance

Mon, Sep-20-2010, 01:59:10 AM	#4
wrcdave Mr. Chicken rules! Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 607 In the garage: '02 BMW M3 Reputation: 0 Location: Long Island	Either a pusher or puller spal works the same. I did a pusher so I could free up space between the radiator and engine to make it easier to work on things. __________________

Mon, Sep-20-2010, 08:09:11 PM	#5
delirium45 Bottom Feeder Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 1,560 Reputation: 0 Location: Longmont, CO	thanks very much Dave, big help. btw; did you see any improvement in water temps after you removed your A/C as it cleans up the path to the radiator considerably. __________________ _ Garrett 2011 Rocky Mountain Region GTS4 champion & "Rookie of the Year" 2012 Rocky Mountain Region GTS3 champion Thanks Sponsors: SCR Performance

Sat, Sep-25-2010, 03:55:26 PM	#6
wrcdave Mr. Chicken rules! Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 607 In the garage: '02 BMW M3 Reputation: 0 Location: Long Island	The oem analog gauge is not very good so I didn't notice any change. I'm sure it helped airflow now that the a/c is gone but I need a digital gauge to know for sure. Add that to the list too. __________________

Sat, Sep-25-2010, 03:59:26 PM	#7
delirium45 Bottom Feeder Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 1,560 Reputation: 0 Location: Longmont, CO	good idea, yea, i'm looking at getting 'real' water and oil temp + oil pressure gauges, rather than settling for the stock 'estimometer' gauges. __________________ _ Garrett 2011 Rocky Mountain Region GTS4 champion & "Rookie of the Year" 2012 Rocky Mountain Region GTS3 champion Thanks Sponsors: SCR Performance

Fri, Oct-22-2010, 10:33:38 PM	#8
delirium45 Bottom Feeder Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 1,560 Reputation: 0 Location: Longmont, CO	In case anyone was wonder what the benefits are to removing your a/c system on track-only cars. Here's a pictoral view... before: Aux fan, shroud, a/c condenser fully covering/blocking the radiator. after: just power steering cooler (two tube+fins you see in the kidneys) in front of the radiator now. with bumper replaced... weigh reduction off the front end of the car... ~48 lbs ! (condenser, compressor, dryer, lines, belt and tensioner, aux fan and shroud) i weighed this bucket of removed parts at 52.2 lbs, it included the above items and: cabin air filter and housing + EGR pump and valve. hope to give this a try in the next week or two. __________________ _ Garrett 2011 Rocky Mountain Region GTS4 champion & "Rookie of the Year" 2012 Rocky Mountain Region GTS3 champion Thanks Sponsors: SCR Performance

Sat, Oct-23-2010, 12:10:25 AM	#10
delirium45 Bottom Feeder Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 1,560 Reputation: 0 Location: Longmont, CO	hmm, i'm not sure... and clearly i cannot go and test it for you now... lol. anyone else know ? __________________ _ Garrett 2011 Rocky Mountain Region GTS4 champion & "Rookie of the Year" 2012 Rocky Mountain Region GTS3 champion Thanks Sponsors: SCR Performance

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode