[loftygoals]

Here's how to install Oxygen Sensor Simulators without even removing the plastic cover over the valve cover.

I started to research this after the bank 2 cat failed on my S54 M Coupe. I have installed a sim using the method I cover below and have run for several thousand miles with out issue or drama.

Simulator needed: Universal O2 Simulator Dual Output from o2simulator.com (Single Output will work as well)

Assumptions: You are leaving the post cat O2 sensors installed in the aftermarket headers or elsewhere in the system for the heater circuit.

Note: These pictures are from the installation on my 2002 M Coupe. The ECU compartment is on the opposite side of the engine bay, but all electrical connectors and numbers are the same.


Here's the sim I received from o2simulator.com. The red wire is +12V, the black Ground, and each of the white are the O2 signal wires.



Start by removing the cover to the ECU.



Locate connector X60002. It is a 24 pin connector and you will have to remove connectors X60003-X60005 to remove it. It is easy to find, because it has a bunch of yellow wires leading to it.



Once you have connector X600002, separate the sub-connectors. And then locate pins 16 & 18. These are both yellow wires with a open (blank) pin in between them.



*** IMPORTANT: Label both sides of the wire before you cut them. Also, leave enough room to solder in the connection to the simulator and/or reattach these wires if the simulator needs to be removed. ***



Cut wires 16 & 18 between the tape marks you made. You will solder or use butt connectors to connect the white wires from the sim to the yellow wire you just cut. (If you are using a single output O2 sim, attach the single white wire to both yellows, 16 & 18.) Ensure that you connect the white wires to the yellow wires on the side that has the plug on it, not the side that leads to the real O2 Sensors. (See completed wiring picture further below.) Tape the unused cut wires to the rest of the bundle so they don't get lost. Ensure your labels stay attached in case you need to remove the O2 simulator in the future.



Located the ECU switched accessory wire to use as the +12V for the sim. It is the red wire with the white stripe and yellow squares seen below.



Locate a ground wire. Almost any brown wire will do. I used the one pictured below.



On the power and ground wires, remove a little of the insulation to give yourself some room to solder.



Solder up your power and ground wires. The sim red wire to the Red/white/yellow ECU power and the sim black to the brown wire.



The completed wiring. Nothing too it!



If you turn on the ignition, the green LED on the sim should illuminate.



Tuck the sim down between the ECU and the wiring to keep it safe.






And that's it! The advantage of doing it this way is that you don't have to mess with any of the wiring in the hot engine bay. It also allows you to install the simulator near the DME to protect it from heat.

I put my laptop on my car and did some data collection. It's interesting to watch the sim work in real time. It seems to randomly cycle through 3 slightly different voltages. I expected to see a constant reading. I was pleasantly surprised to see the changing data. That means even if you look at the live data it looks like the o2 sensors are really there and working.

Enjoy and let me know if you have any questions!

-bj
Clown Shoe Motorsports

[M302_IMOLA]

Nice! I might need to look into doing this. What was the total cost?

[loftygoals]

Originally Posted by M302_IMOLA

Nice! I might need to look into doing this. What was the total cost?

<$50!

-bj

[04yfz]

Thank you for this, I will definitely subscribe and save this thread for when I buy and install my headers. Do the yellow wires have to be cut? What if I were to install a T Tap into the yellow wires, would that work?

[FLBMWM3]

Awesome DIY. I am glad to see someone putting pictures to the written description. This helps quite a bit.

[SRTVenom]

This is truly awesome, I was worried about throwing the same cells M302_IMOLA did with catless headers. Glad to know there's an easy fix for it, now back to the waiting game for the headers.

[ferrarix99]

you are the man bro,

I plan on leaving my original o2 sensors in for the heater circuit, is this how you have it set up?

have you ever had a code with the o2 sim installed? I installed it in my old zhp and i had a check engine light, mightve been because of some of the wiring back then though.

[thecatspajamas]

Besides removing the SES light, would there be any performance gains with this mod?

[loftygoals]

Originally Posted by 04yfz

Do the yellow wires have to be cut? What if I were to install a T Tap into the yellow wires, would that work?

Yes, they have to be cut. If you don't cut them, the ECU would get voltage from both the O2 Sensors and the sims. Sounds like a good way to screw up your ECU to me.

Originally Posted by ferrarix99

I plan on leaving my original o2 sensors in for the heater circuit, is this how you have it set up?

You can remove the O2 sensor completely if you use a resistor or "heater sim". I don't like those because they put a heater element somewhere in your engine bay. Besides, I like having all 4 O2 sensors there in case anyone decides to check during a state inspection.

Originally Posted by ferrarix99

have you ever had a code with the o2 sim installed?

I have had it installed for about a 1200 track miles and a 1000 street miles. No codes, no pending codes, nothing.

Originally Posted by thecatspajamas

Besides removing the SES light, would there be any performance gains with this mod?

It is hard to say. Some people claim that the ECU will reduce power when the SES light is lit. I haven't ever tested this theory or seen any data supporting this, though. Removing the cats, definitely provides a performance increase. Even relocating the cats and using higher performance units will help. The problem with relocated hi-po cats is: 1) that they can throw codes and 2) you have to lengthen the O2 wires for the post cat sensors. The sims will keep the codes away and the hi-po cats keep the car 100% street legal (ok more or less legal) all while increasing performance.

The other problem with driving around with the SES light lit is that you never know if it is lit for 1 code or 100.

-bj

[kkamakasi]

subscribed