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| E36 M3 (1992-1999) {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm} Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999 |
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#11 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 445
Reputation: 0
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I'll get on it when I get home. Need to get that thing out. Then I'll have my hands full again with the shifter arm pin. Tried to remove it this morning with a flat head on the side and pushing up but the thing won't budge. Hope I'll have better luck tonight.
What shift knob do you guys have? Gonna install a ssk with this and I might want to order a weighted knob, but nothing too expensive.
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just a noob
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#12 |
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:FACEPALM:
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 26,550
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: San Diego
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***** waiting for the ZHP nut huggers to show up
***** |
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#13 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 445
Reputation: 0
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from tischer? does it take them that long to ship? I might order there if I go with zhp.
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just a noob
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#14 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 667
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: Boston
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Drop the transmission to remove the shifter coupling? It must be easier to just remove the engine to change the serp belt, too right?
Just use a small, thin, bladed screwdriver and work it into the "break" in the clip. Pry up one end of the clip, work the screwdriver around the perimeter of the clip, and it will slip back over the circumference of the coupling and backward onto the shift rod. Then just push out the coupling pin and it's off. Every manual tranny BMW since the '70s has used the same type coupling, and it just takes a little practice to get them off without bending/twisting them.
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#15 |
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 445
Reputation: 0
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Was able to get it off last night.
Now another problem is I've been going at the selector shaft seal last night and again this morning with no success.
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just a noob
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#16 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 667
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![]() Location: Boston
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This has always worked for me:
Find a piece of thin metal rod, like a slim wire coat hanger. Bend about 1/8" of one end over like a very tight hook. Almost bent over double against the wire. Leave enough length to reach the seal, and bend a finger loop on the other end of the wire where you will be holding it. Carefully insert the bent over end along the selector rod, past the lip of the seal. Once it's past the seal lip, twist it slightly so the hook catches the metal edge of the seal. Gently pull the seal out. Be careful not to force anything so you don't scratch the selector rod. Be patient and take your time. It might take a few tries to get it.
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#17 | |
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 445
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Quote:
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#18 |
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Carlos is My Co-Pilot
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 4,547
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: Near the Tannhäuser Gate
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Hmmm... This is one of my weekend/Thanksgiving break projects... I'll have to try the coat hanger trick...
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75 years and 350,000 miles of fun: 1998 M3/4/5 No mods, just maintenance 1983 CJ-7 No maintenance, just mods 1983 R65LS No intention of modding it, don't know how to maintain it |
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#19 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 445
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I actually tried a couple picks and bent the tip like a hook but the pick is just not strong enough as it ends up bending back when I'm pulling on the seal. I'll be picking up a different set up pick later and hopefully they're much stronger. Where can I find a slim wire coat hanger? Do they sell that at the hardware store or do I have to raid my closet? I think I only have wooden hangers though.
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just a noob
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#20 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,471
Reputation: 0
![]() Location: Monmouth County, NJ
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I had one at one time but have moved on
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| clip, coupler, rod, shift |
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