[kuksul08]

Just took my car to get an alignment and I'm a little concerned (as usual when someone else works on my car). There was a full fuel tank and no weight in the car.

The most negative front camber he could get on one side is -1.2, and so he made it even side-to-side. When I look at the car now, one strut plate is fully to the inside and the other side is fully to the outside.

Is this normal?

[jph28]

I eventually realized I had a slightly bent passenger front control arm this fall, and it started with something similar to what you're describing. To have even negative camber on both sides one camber plate is 2 "notches" in from the outside, the other is 5. Then when I was selling my OEM 19" wheels I noticed a slight bend in the front passenger wheel... after that I just assumed I have a bent control arm (not terrible unusual either, from reading).

Try to feel how much clearance you have from the inside of your front wheels to the strut - if there is a noticeable difference your arm (or another suspension component) is probably bent. I even got some wheel-to-strut rubbing with 9.5" wide ET35 wheels up front on the passenger side with the stock suspension.

[kuksul08]

I actually just installed some new Koni struts and I recall that strut-to-tire gap being about the same on each side.

In fact, I'm looking at the alignment sheet right now and when I went there I had both strut at full negative. The alignment specs say they were at -1.6deg and -1.2 deg before, so he put them both to -1.2.

Assuming the alignment tool is accurate, that means something could be bent as you suggest. Hmm...

edit: He also said he could only get the passenger side rear camber to -1.4 before it was at the limit - same side as the front. Maybe the previous owner hit something... hmm.

[bvnmspt]

do you have camber plates? if so, it doesn't sound right. i have -2 degree up in front and the rears are -1.5.

[kuksul08]

Originally Posted by bvnmspt

do you have camber plates? if so, it doesn't sound right. i have -2 degree up in front and the rears are -1.5.

No camber plates, and no adjustable rear camber arms.

[bvnmspt]

Without camber plates, you can't adjust the front camber on these cars. The only alignment adjustment available is front toe, rear camber, and rear toe. That's it. I've seen a diy long time ago that shows how to get more camber out of the stock suspension but it requires you to loosen the front struts and rotate the top hat of the strut.

-1.2 degree is actually the stock setting for the front. Is there anything wrong with your car? Nope. If you want more negative camber, consider getting camber plates. From factory, these cars are set up to understeer for safety. The car feels much better with 2 degrees up front and 1.5 degrees in the rear.

[kuksul08]

Originally Posted by bvnmspt

Without camber plates, you can't adjust the front camber on these cars. The only alignment adjustment available is front toe, rear camber, and rear toe. That's it. I've seen a diy long time ago that shows how to get more camber out of the stock suspension but it requires you to loosen the front struts and rotate the top hat of the strut.

-1.2 degree is actually the stock setting for the front. Is there anything wrong with your car? Nope. If you want more negative camber, consider getting camber plates. From factory, these cars are set up to understeer for safety. The car feels much better with 2 degrees up front and 1.5 degrees in the rear.

The strut towers are slotted and have a factory alignment pin. If you remove that pin, you can in fact adjust the camber within a small range. I believe it is approximately -.5 to -1.5 degrees.

I thought about camber plates, but can't afford them.

[hogger453]

Disagree with one poster. I have -1.8 on both sides on the fronts. Requires the removal of one locating bolt on each side of the hats.

And no, something is not right.

[kuksul08]

Originally Posted by jph28

I eventually realized I had a slightly bent passenger front control arm this fall, and it started with something similar to what you're describing. To have even negative camber on both sides one camber plate is 2 "notches" in from the outside, the other is 5. Then when I was selling my OEM 19" wheels I noticed a slight bend in the front passenger wheel... after that I just assumed I have a bent control arm (not terrible unusual either, from reading).

Try to feel how much clearance you have from the inside of your front wheels to the strut - if there is a noticeable difference your arm (or another suspension component) is probably bent. I even got some wheel-to-strut rubbing with 9.5" wide ET35 wheels up front on the passenger side with the stock suspension.

I take back what I said earlier. I just went into the garage and reached into the wheel wheel. On the driver side I can almost fit 2 fingers (about 1.5 I'd guess) between the spring perch and the tire. On the passenger side I can fit maybe 1 finger, tightly.

So, that explains the uneven camber setting to compensate. The control arm must be slightly bent then?

Thanks for the help everyone.

[jph28]

Originally Posted by kuksul08

I take back what I said earlier. I just went into the garage and reached into the wheel wheel. On the driver side I can almost fit 2 fingers (about 1.5 I'd guess) between the spring perch and the tire. On the passenger side I can fit maybe 1 finger, tightly.

So, that explains the uneven camber setting to compensate. The control arm must be slightly bent then?

Thanks for the help everyone.

Well, I'm not positive that a bent control arm is my or your problem, but I am leaning that way for me since I also found my front right OEM 19 with a little bend in it.

The control arm makes the most sense to me for both of us though, since there isn't anything else that I know of that can cause all of these symptoms. I'm just trying to figure the best time to bite the bullet and replace it (or both, more likely)...