[aznbo187]

Since the other thread is from the last decade, I figured it was a good idea to make a more thorough DIY thread with current part numbers and a video.

HD Images along with the DIY are also hosted at MClub.la
Maintenance Schedule

BMW recommends an oil and filter change every 15,000 miles. Most enthusiasts find that range a bit excessive and perform an oil and filter change every 7,500 miles. Not only will this prolong the life of the engine internals, but proper lubrication is a vital to the VANOS system and rod bearings – two sensitive components of the S54 engine. Again, this is a very subjective decision, but changing it sooner does give you some piece of mind.

An oil change is simple and straight forward. You will need these two items:

(1) Oil Filter Kit
(6 Liters) Synthetic 10w-60 Oil

Tools needed:

• A way to elevate your car (ramps, lift, hydraulic jack)
• Drain Funnel & Drain Pan (6 quart capacity)
• Torque Wrench (3/4 Inch Drive; 5-80ft/lbs Range)
• Socket Wrench (3/4 Inch Drive)
• 13mm Socket (3/4 Inch Drive)
• 6mm Hex Socket (3/4 Inch Drive)
• Flathead Screwdriver

Filter Kit Options

There are several oil filters available, but I would limit it to these three OEM, or OE-spec filter manufacturers. All three of these have proven reliability and, most importantly, include the new O-Rings for the housing cap and bolt, as well as the new crush washer required for every change.

• BMW Original Oil Filter Kit (11-42-1-730-389)
• Mann Oil Filter Kit (HU 926/4X)
• Mahle Oil Filter Kit (OX187D)

Engine Oil Options

BMW’s factory recommended oil is Castrol TWS 10w-60, which was specifically engineered for the Motorsport marquee by Castrol.

Some independent shops recommend Liqui Moly Race Tech GT1, Mobil 1 Extended Life Synthetic 10w-60 and other performance brands. There is no added benefit, as the BMW factory recommended Castrol 10w-60 has been proven to work fine even in 500whp forced induction applications. There may be some monetary savings, but it’s usually only about $25-30 per oil change. Extensive internet debate actually recommends the Castrol blend above all others for this application.

• Castrol TWS 10w-60 (OEM Fluid)
• Liqui Moly Race Tech GT1 10w-60
• Mobil 1 Extended Life Synthetic 10w-60

Ok, and the most important part - instructions! Read these, watch the video and it all will make sense.

1. Drive around to get your car to normal operating temperatures.
2. Jack up the front of the car and remove the black plastic oil drain access panel with a flat head.

3. Open the hood and locate the oil filter housing. Using the 13mm socket wrench remove the oil filter housing bolt that holds the cap down. Take caution as the filter will still be hot to the touch, as well as the filter element.
4. Remove the bolt, filter, and housing cap and place it on your work bench.
5. The new filter kit will come with a set of new o-ring and washers. There is a big O-Ring on the filter housing cap, a small o-ring on the housing bolt, and a small washer on the housing bolt as well. Remove and replace them.
6. Wipe down the filter housing, and install new filter.

7. Back on the bottom of the car, bring your oil drain pan and place it under the drain bolt. Remove the drain bolt using the 6mm hex socket. Be careful not to strip the bolt as it's a soft metal compound and strips easily.
8. Replace the drain bolt washer with a new washer included in the filter kit.
9. Once done draining, re-install the drain bolt, and torque the drain bolt to 18ft/lbs using the torque wrench.

10. Fill the fresh fluid via the filter housing or engine oil cap opening. It's a good practice to fill one bottle through the new filter to pre-saturate it.
11. The engine needs 6.3 quarts, which is 6 bottles. But most of the time you will be refilling roughly 5.5 bottles, due to the residual oil that doesn't drain. I always fill about 5.5 bottles, and check the dipstick to make sure.
12. Once fresh fluid is filled, re-install the filter housing cap and bolt and torque it down to 24ft/lbs.

13. Drive around for a few minutes, and re-check oil level. Fluid level should be in between the two marks on the dipstick. If on the lower half, top off with some fluid.

BMW E46 M3 Oil Change DIY - YouTube

BMW E46 M3 Oil Change DIY - YouTube

Disclaimer
If you found this video/how-to guide helpful, it would be nice if you could like the YouTube video, or subscribe to our channel so we have a chance to be an affiliate. That's all.

[Captai]

If i presaturate the filter with a full bottle, will i still need to fill the engine with 6 bottles? making it a total of 7 bottles needed for the procedure?

[aznbo187]

Originally Posted by Captai

If i presaturate the filter with a full bottle, will i still need to fill the engine with 6 bottles? making it a total of 7 bottles needed for the procedure?

Nope. This just means that instead of pouring all 6 bottles through the oil cap inlet, you are using one and saturating the filter with it. This does not mean you need an extra bottle. Total capacity does not change.

[Captai]

Originally Posted by aznbo187

Nope. This just means that instead of pouring all 6 bottles through the oil cap inlet, you are using one and saturating the filter with it. This does not mean you need an extra bottle. Total capacity does not change.

Thank you!

Much appreciated

[SkeeterV]

great diy!! simple and very useful.

[Toby22]

wow thanks for the video/DIY! i will be doing my first oil change on this car....cant wait Nice to see fellow members taking time to help others, thanks again!!

[hsverma]

Can anyone please recommend a good Torque wrench (one that actually works) in this range (Ratchet Type 3/8 inch Drive Torque Wrench 5 - 80lbs)? Where can I buy one? The HF one's don't work at lower torque ranges.

[lucky_doggg7]

Adding to this post, I used a genuine BMW oil plug that uses, if I recall correctly, a 13 mm wrench, instead of the hex key headed drain plug that takes a 6mm hex key. It fit perfectly for some years but recently on an oil change, when the plug was removed, it also took out the aluminum sump pan's threads with it! Yikes! A shop I go to managed to "Time-cert" the stripped hole so now I have a steel threaded insert in my sump pan, AND I use the stock 6mm hex head plug now. I'm thinking if I wasn't so lazy in in buying hex keys, I would have saved myself some money and prevented myself some aggravation, and general drama. Moral to the story: Use the Stock 6mm keyed Oil Plug!

[ECSTuning]

Great DIY! I have an Oil Change kit found HERE which with all the fluids and parts needed for this DIY.

ECS Tuning

[Jako1]

Originally Posted by hsverma

Can anyone please recommend a good Torque wrench (one that actually works) in this range (Ratchet Type 3/8 inch Drive Torque Wrench 5 - 80lbs)? Where can I buy one? The HF one's don't work at lower torque ranges.

You don't really need a torque wrench. Just tight is good. That means, a little tap with the palm of your hand against the ratchet arm.... After you feel that the plug has seated against the pan.