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E46 M3 (2001-2006) Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006.


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Old Tue, Nov-22-2011, 05:07:31 AM   #41
brichter
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Default Re: DIY: Secondary Air Pump Valve Delete

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Originally Posted by halik View Post
Kombi valves are vacuum solenoid operated,
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Originally Posted by halik View Post
Check valve on the vacuum input or you mean the shiny metal one (kombi valve)?

Edit:


Yeah that's the Kombi valve that can fail open. You tend to get "incorrect flow" check engine light when that happens.
I think you're referring to the non-S54 engines, that diagram is for the S54.

The S54 engine doesn't use the same system as the M series engines. The S54 DME system has an electric air pump, and a check valve mounted to the cylinder head. There's no vacuum solenoid and it's not vacuum operated or controlled, the DME switches a relay that powers the air pump.

#4 in that diagram is a simple check valve, it allows air to enter the cylinder head into the exhaust ports and does not allow exhaust back through the system towards the rubber air supply hose or the plastic pump. If this valve fails in the open position, exhaust will flow from the cylinder head into the rubber hose and the air pump any time the air pump is not activated, and since those parts are made of rubber and plastic, they will just melt and/or burn up.

Here's the M52 fiche, you can see the vacuum nipple on the valve:
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Last edited by brichter; Tue, Nov-22-2011 at 05:13:47 AM. Reason: Added fiche for M52 engine.
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Old Tue, Nov-22-2011, 05:09:52 AM   #42
new//m3fan
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Default Re: DIY: Secondary Air Pump Valve Delete

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Originally Posted by brichter View Post
I think you're referring to the non-S54 engines, that diagram is for the S54.

The S54 engine doesn't use the same system as the M52, 54 and 56 engines. The S54 DME system has an electric air pump, and a check valve mounted to the cylinder head. There's no vacuum solenoid and it's not vacuum operated or controlled, the DME switches a relay that powers the air pump.

#4 in that diagram is a simple check valve, it allows air to enter the cylinder head into the exhaust ports and does not allow exhaust back through the system towards the rubber air supply hose or the plastic pump. If this valve fails in the open position, exhaust will flow from the cylinder head into the rubber hose and the air pump any time the air pump is not activated, and since those parts are made of rubber and plastic, they will just melt and/or burn up.
Early non-m e46's had a vacuum operated SAP valve. it was then later changed to the negative pressure type as in the M3. I think 2003's not sure though. The main reason Secondary air pumps go bad is due to these valves sticking open or oscillating exhaust into the pump. creating moisture and rusting the bearings inside.

The one on my 330ci even had black soot coming out of the connector and it was completely seized.

And not a single CEL was thrown for a faulty valve. Hence the reason I felt such a massive tq gain and mileage on the 330ci. On the M3 it wasn't as drastic. But noticeable.

Last edited by new//m3fan; Tue, Nov-22-2011 at 05:13:49 AM.
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Old Tue, Nov-22-2011, 05:15:08 AM   #43
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Default Re: DIY: Secondary Air Pump Valve Delete

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Early non-m e46's had a vacuum operated SAP valve. it was then later changed to the negative pressure type as in the M3. I think 2003's not sure though. The main reason Secondary air pumps go bad is due to these valves sticking open or oscillating exhaust into the pump. creating moisture and rusting the bearings inside.

The one on my 330ci even had black soot coming out of the connector and it was completely seized.

And not a single CEL was thrown for a faulty valve. Hence the reason I felt such a massive tq gain and mileage on the 330ci. On the M3 it wasn't as drastic. But noticeable.
Yup, see my edit with the fiche for the non M engine...
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Old Tue, Nov-22-2011, 05:17:08 AM   #44
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Default Re: DIY: Secondary Air Pump Valve Delete

Sweet, so i'm supposed to gain a tad bit of torque? And slightly better MPG... I'll take it!
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Old Tue, Nov-22-2011, 05:22:42 AM   #45
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Default Re: DIY: Secondary Air Pump Valve Delete

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Sweet, so i'm supposed to gain a tad bit of torque? And slightly better MPG... I'll take it!
Only if the system was malfunctioning before you removed it... if it's working properly the only performance increase you'll get is what you get from reducing the weight of the vehicle by .2%.

When I used to track my bikes the wisdom was always "If you want to save weight, gain performance and get better lap times, lose 10 lbs off the rider's ass!"
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Old Tue, Nov-22-2011, 05:31:33 AM   #46
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Default Re: DIY: Secondary Air Pump Valve Delete

Damn... well maybe it was and I didn't know it! haha.

I guess 4 lbs off the car is better than nothing... that much closer to my goal!

Must of been fun tracking the bike, sounds intense. had a couple buddies into that.
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Old Tue, Nov-22-2011, 05:35:18 AM   #47
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Default Re: DIY: Secondary Air Pump Valve Delete

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Early non-m e46's had a vacuum operated SAP valve. it was then later changed to the negative pressure type as in the M3. I think 2003's not sure though. The main reason Secondary air pumps go bad is due to these valves sticking open or oscillating exhaust into the pump. creating moisture and rusting the bearings inside.

The one on my 330ci even had black soot coming out of the connector and it was completely seized.

And not a single CEL was thrown for a faulty valve. Hence the reason I felt such a massive tq gain and mileage on the 330ci. On the M3 it wasn't as drastic. But noticeable.
I could've sworn the valve had a vacuum nipple on it; but yeah I've rebuilt the one on my S4 several times before replacing the stupid valves. Take the pump apart and it's all orange and rusty.

Still thought, If you're having unmetered air issues, you can see it in your fuel trims; I would be blown away if the SAI system is what's throwing off the lambda values.

Last edited by halik; Tue, Nov-22-2011 at 05:38:59 AM.
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Old Tue, Nov-22-2011, 05:44:11 AM   #48
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Default Re: DIY: Secondary Air Pump Valve Delete

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I could've sworn the valve had a vacuum nipple on it; but yeah I've rebuilt the one on my S4 several times before replacing the stupid valves. Take the pump apart and it's all orange and rusty.

Still thought, If you're having unmetered air issues, you can see it in your fuel trims; I would be blown away if the SAI system is what's throwing off the lambda values.
I'm sure it is. I'd rather block it off and reinstall when emmisions inspection come up. That way the SAP doesn't wear out.
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Old Tue, Nov-22-2011, 05:46:13 AM   #49
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Default Re: DIY: Secondary Air Pump Valve Delete

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I'm sure it is. I'd rather block it off and reinstall when emmisions inspection come up. That way the SAP doesn't wear out.
Does the euro software flash disable it ? If i remember correctly, the secondary air stuff is US specific.
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Old Tue, Nov-22-2011, 12:52:36 PM   #50
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Default Re: DIY: Secondary Air Pump Valve Delete

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yea, You could always make your own aluminum piece that is just designed to hold the coolant tank. I just decided to leave the pump in place since there would just be a big gaping hole where the SAP was.

On my 330ci, the SAP valve has it's own bracket which you can take off for a cleaner look.
I trimmed off the sap portion of the mount, ground it smooth with a dremel, and then spray painted the entire thing matte black to make it look oem.
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Discussing DIY: Secondary Air Pump Valve Delete in the E46 M3 (2001-2006) Forum - Engine: S54 - Max Hp: 333 hp at 7,900 rpm / 262 lb/ft at 4,900 rpm
Total Produced: 45,000+ - Years Produced: 2001 to 2006. at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)