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E36 M3 (1992-1999) {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999

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Old Sat, Jul-21-2012, 10:02:46 PM   #1
aeronaut
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Question RTABs, OEM style, which?

Gotta order a few parts to finish suspension, so I'm going ahead and consolidating an order for a few other things needed, including RTABs. Going OEM style. Couldn't find an opinion/info on here on which of the following is best, or does it matter:

-Genuine BMW
-Lemforder
-Meyle "heavy duty"

Only $5 total difference between all 3, just want to use the best.

Opinions?
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Old Sun, Jul-22-2012, 12:08:44 AM   #2
aeronaut
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Default Re: RTABs, OEM style, which?

Hmmm...now it looks like my 95 RTABs are different than others? At least according to OEM #'s. A bit confusing.
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Old Sun, Jul-22-2012, 12:23:33 AM   #3
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Default Re: RTABs, OEM style, which?

If I remember correctly, Lemforder RTAB's are OEM. I did them on my car two months ago, and they are PITA to replace. Gotta get alignment too after you are done.
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Old Sun, Jul-22-2012, 12:32:48 AM   #4
aeronaut
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Default Re: RTABs, OEM style, which?

That's what I understand too. Now trying to understand why Pelican lists RTAB's for 95 only, and 96 on. Would also like to know what's 'heavy duty' about the Meyle's.
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Old Sun, Jul-22-2012, 12:59:02 AM   #5
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Default Re: RTABs, OEM style, which?

Can't go wrong with Lemforders
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Old Sun, Jul-22-2012, 01:59:20 AM   #6
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Default Re: RTABs, OEM style, which?

Quote:
Originally Posted by SKyle View Post
Can't go wrong with Lemforders
^This. If you can get lemmies always do so. They are generally the best quality in most things if you are going with an OEM-type part. I did the RTAB's in both cars recently, not too bad if you use the right tools, which is either a real RTAB tool or the ball joint press from Advance. I had a problem getting the RTAB tool so used the press and it worked fine but was a little fiddly. Also, by the limiters. RMeuropean has them for like $20. Don't pay the $40-50-60 from some places, they are just plastic discs, nothing special.
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Old Sun, Jul-22-2012, 02:39:17 AM   #7
aeronaut
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Default Re: RTABs, OEM style, which?

Pelican has the limiters for $20 too.

Still trying to figure out why Pelican lists 95 limiters different that others.

95, part number: 33-32-6-770-786-M69



"superseded' for 95, part number: 33-32-6-770-817-M69, if I go by what's on rogue engineering page.



Then, Turner says to use these, as they are most up to date: 33322228153G



ECS says to use part number 33326770786, which is the same as Pelican for the 95.

And ECS definately shows a different part number for 95 vs 96+

Confusing!

Last edited by aeronaut; Sun, Jul-22-2012 at 02:45:07 AM.
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Old Sun, Jul-22-2012, 04:23:50 AM   #8
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Default Re: RTABs, OEM style, which?

Idk why anyone would use the OEM rubber or rubber of any kind. Maybe I'm missing something.
About the time you have one OEM rubber bushing slide out of place after getting the alignment done, you'll never do rubber again.

PowerFlex Polyurethane Black (softest) is so easy to pop in. You don't need a press to put them in. No additional NVH present. The limiters are inherently on the sides already. No brainer. $75 plus shipping from Bimmerworld.
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Last edited by egebhardt; Sun, Jul-22-2012 at 04:31:34 AM.
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Old Sun, Jul-22-2012, 04:41:30 AM   #9
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Default Re: RTABs, OEM style, which?

Quote:
Originally Posted by egebhardt View Post
Idk why anyone would use the OEM rubber or rubber of any kind. Maybe I'm missing something.
About the time you have one OEM rubber bushing slide out of place after getting the alignment done, you'll never do rubber again.

PowerFlex Polyurethane Black (softest) is so easy to pop in. You don't need a press to put them in. No additional NVH present. The limiters are inherently on the sides already. No brainer. $75 plus shipping from Bimmerworld.
Got to agree. I went with 80A AKGs. No NVH at all, no PITA to install, and much beefier than the OE ones.

I hated scouring the searches to find what I wanted to only bump into a thread like this that made me second guess myself, but, after all of the research I went with the softest AKGs I could find....which is basically what I am going to do with the rest of the bushings as well.
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E36M3 Price (fn) = $23,235.64 - .06(mileage) - 1,802.85(coupe) - 1,718.44(vert) - 442.10(age of M3)
2012-2010 Mket Price (fn) = $16,593.86 - 0.05(per mile) - 2,907.51(coupe) - 2,262.52(vert) + 16.35(age)
Sedan Price (fn) = $20,183.43 - 0.04(mileage) - 340.09(age)
Coupe Price (fn) = $22,133.90 - 0.06(per mile) - 465.11(age)
Vert Price (fn) = $31,164.49 - 0.09(per mile) - 1,019.64(age)

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Old Sun, Jul-22-2012, 09:12:41 AM   #10
aeronaut
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Default Re: RTABs, OEM style, which?

I've read a lot on this topic. OE type RTAB's for me. Everytime I think of going poly for ease of install, I research again, and decide OE. For example...a Vorshlag article;
http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info...roducts_id=421

"Polyurethane is a bad choice for a bushing material if it has to deflect - such as in a multi-axis suspension bushing location like the RTAB. Rubber bushings + limiters or a complete replacement with a custom steel spherical bearing are the only two textbook choices for this location. We have seen a number of RTAB failures on BMWs that were using poly in these areas"

"If you have a street car or dual purpose BMW you should always stick with OEM bushings and RTAB limiters, and even many race prepped BMWs use this setup with excellent results."

As far as I can tell, ease of install is the only advantage of a poly bushing for this location for most uses (street, autox, etc.)

Last edited by aeronaut; Sun, Jul-22-2012 at 09:16:50 AM.
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Discussing RTABs, OEM style, which? in the E36 M3 (1992-1999) Forum - {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999 at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)