[enderw88]

Originally Posted by mule22

Also, if it were battery/starter issue, why would it die while I was driving???

There was a guy here a while back who had intermittent cutouts under heavy breaking because the battery was adrift and shorting the positive terminal out against the unibody...

[Cheeze]

Originally Posted by mule22

Also, if it were battery/starter issue, why would it die while I was driving???

If it were your alternator, your battery would die and the alternator would no longer supply electricity for all things electrical (ECU, sparkplugs, etc). This happened in my e30 right in the middle of one of the busiest and most dangerous intersections in the state during rush hour. The car just died while rolling (luckily I had built up just enough momentum to roll through). I noticed the control panel / dash lights starting to dim a minute or two before it died.

[abcurran]

If it's not battery or alternator, it could be ECU.

I had an 02 VW GTI 1.8T die on me in traffic once. The car would crank all day long as if there was no fuel. Turns out one of the solders on the aftermarket chip went bad and the ECU was dead.

Maybe try finding a stock DME and plug that it in to see if it works.

[tbaker474]

Your starter is fine. It's only job is to crank the engine, so if that's happening then it's working. That also means that the battery is (was) doing its job by providing enough current to turn the starter & engine. You probably wore down the battery cranking the car during your diagnosis, but that likely wasn't the original issue.

You have power at the fuel pump, but do you have fuel pressure? I would recharge the battery, then start testing for compression, spark, and fuel. Find which of the three is missing and then you'll have a better direction to proceed.

[m3onrails]

Obd1? My guess would be your crank position sensor, and now your battery died from trying to crank it so much.

[Alex Lipowich]

My understanding of EWS is that the only query regarding key and matching SN between DME and EWS module is at start up. Once running, there is no constant checking, so that even if the key dies,or EWS module died, it would not stall.

You might not be able to restart, but it won't stall the car with EWS failure of any kind.

Sounds suspiciously like Failure of a relay, or section in the Dme, or a ground somewhere critical.

I would make sure you have +12 going to the pumps when you try and start the car. If not, work your way back.

Is the relay getting a trigger from Dme?

[mule22]

tbaker - yes you understand my description perfectly. That's why I originally thought fuel pumps.

I hooked the truck up to the battery (good ole jumper cables), and the motor cranked fine. Still didn't start. I heard there is a port or something at the end of the fuel rail that allows you to test for fuel pressure????

I don't think it's the fuel pump (s) because I have two pumps. Don't think both die at the same time.

The sensor is an interesting theory. I had to replace one of those on my last race car. Audi A4. But it started and ran fine, just didn't have any power on the dyno.

I think the biggest question is why are the fuel pumps not turning on when I cycle the key??? There is no rear seat in the car and you could hear those pumps plain as day before, no nothing.

[MMMGP]

According to REALOEM there is only one fuel pump. The "other" side is only a fuel level sensor.

[m3onrails]

It's a very common mod to add dual pre-95 fuel pumps in order to solve the fuel starvation issues these cars have. Since it seems his car is heavily modded, this is probably what setup he has.

[itsme]

You stated yoy got power at the relay but, it doesn't mean its closing the contact and sending power to your fuel pumps. When you cycle the key do you get power at the pump? If you don't I'll check the control circuit of the pump relay.

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