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E36 M3 (1992-1999) {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999


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Old Tue, Jun-14-2005, 09:08:17 PM   #1
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Default Symptoms Of a Dirty Idle Control Valve.

Can anyone provide these symptoms for me?

If it's dirty are the symptoms intermittent or constant?

Thanks!!
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Old Wed, Jun-15-2005, 05:27:31 PM   #2
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Typically a poor idle. M3 engines (S52) tend to idle a bit rough when running perfectly, and tend to try to stall a bit when cold, but if your idle is really rough, or it idles too high at times, chances are your ICV could use cleaning.

I cleaned mine - car has 83k on it - and it needed it.

A few hints on doing the job:

1. Remove the dipstick assembly completely. The ICV mounts to the same bolts into the manifold so you have to take them out anyway. The dipstick tube just goes into the engine casting with an O ring, which on mine was in good condition.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?
model=BK93&mospid=47479&btnr=11_1486&hg=11&fg=10 <<-- part #9

Having it out of the way allows you easier access to the ICV.

2. Remove the intake boot (the big rubber boot between the MAF or the ASC throttle body - if your car is so equipped.) Remove the ASC throttle body if your car has one - leave it connected to the cable and just put it out of the way.

There is one hose connecting to the ICV. Disconnect it at the other end (where it goes into the intake boot), then after removing the retaining bolts, pull the ICV straight down. It seals into the bottom of the manifold with a rubber ring.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...81&hg=13&fg=15 <--- part 9, part 8 isn't used on our cars.

You might want to replace this ring since you are taking the ICV out. Mine was in good shape, but one used in a climate with high ozone levels (west coast) may not be. In any case - I'd suggest lubricating the rubber ring with silicone lubricant of some type before trying to reinstall the ICV.

3. Once you have it out - spray the inside liberally with a good carb cleaner while holding the ICV by the body. Grip is so you can rotate your hand and the ICV rotates. Do this so the actual valve inside turns as you spray the cleaner (as usual - wear eye protection and don't breathe this stull, it's nasty.)

Installation is the reverse of..

BTW - you might also consider R&R of the intake throttle body for cleaning at the same time... since you have all the other stuff out of the way - it's only four nuts to remove it. THe TB can also cause erratic idle as it gets cruded up. Check both sides of the butterfly for crud, and open it and carefully clean (with carb-cleaner on a rag) the bore.

Don Eilenberger

Last edited by deilenberger; Wed, Jun-15-2005 at 06:30:06 PM.
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Old Wed, Jun-15-2005, 05:35:40 PM   #3
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Default

Informative post, Don. Thanks.
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Old Tue, Jun-14-2011, 05:53:53 PM   #4
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Default Re: Symptoms Of a Dirty Idle Control Valve.

Quote:
Originally Posted by deilenberger View Post
Typically a poor idle. M3 engines (S52) tend to idle a bit rough when running perfectly, and tend to try to stall a bit when cold....
Let me start with, I know this is a MASSIVE bump from the dead, but I cant leave this mis-information just hanging out there...


wtf u talking about Don? A perfect running M3 is exactly that.. Perfectly running. If the car doesnt have a problem, it will run as it should, with a smooth idel, and NOT try to stall when cold.

Where do you get this stuff?
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Old Tue, Jun-14-2011, 07:14:49 PM   #5
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Default Re: Symptoms Of a Dirty Idle Control Valve.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OahuMPower View Post
Let me start with, I know this is a MASSIVE bump from the dead, but I cant leave this mis-information just hanging out there...


wtf u talking about Don? A perfect running M3 is exactly that.. Perfectly running. If the car doesnt have a problem, it will run as it should, with a smooth idel, and NOT try to stall when cold.

Where do you get this stuff?
This.

My car (97K on the clock) starts and runs perfectly smooth when cold. Even when I had a crack in the intake boot before the TB (which connects to the ICV), the car only idled rough for about 20 seconds and never, ever stalled when cold.

I would check this boot and the hose that runs from the boot to the ICV, as these get hard and crack over time, leading to poor idle and the occasional "bouncing" idle. Much easier to do this first than removing and cleaning the ICV.
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Old Tue, Jun-14-2011, 07:23:15 PM   #6
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Default Re: Symptoms Of a Dirty Idle Control Valve.

Also you dont have to take the dipstick tube out to remove the ICV, very doable with it in......
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Old Wed, Jun-15-2011, 05:58:12 PM   #7
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Default Re: Symptoms Of a Dirty Idle Control Valve.

Here we go..........


:popcorn:
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Old Thu, Jun-16-2011, 12:39:06 AM   #8
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Default Re: Symptoms Of a Dirty Idle Control Valve.

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Originally Posted by WRXEATR View Post
Here we go..........


:popcorn:
woot woot
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Old Thu, Jun-16-2011, 01:03:05 AM   #9
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Default Re: Symptoms Of a Dirty Idle Control Valve.

SHOWTIME!

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Old Thu, Jun-16-2011, 03:42:18 AM   #10
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Default Re: Symptoms Of a Dirty Idle Control Valve.

Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXEATR View Post
Here we go..........


:popcorn:
no popcorn required. Doesnt matter who posted that information, I would of done the same thing, it just happens to be a mod, who just so happens to have issues with some of us.

Wrong information was put out, and I corrected it. Plain and simple
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Discussing Symptoms Of a Dirty Idle Control Valve. in the E36 M3 (1992-1999) Forum - {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999 at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)