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E36 M3 (1992-1999) {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999

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Old Wed, Dec-28-2005, 01:28:25 PM   #1
ShreddieM
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Arrow E36 Master Cylinder Help! (tried a few searches)

My clutch pedal has completley disconected from the master cylinder. From what I could tell there is a black plastic loop on the end of the piston for the master cylinder. Upon further inspection I found the plactic loop (connector to clutch pedal) in two pecies on the floor. CRAP! I'm considering replacing the master cylinder and the bushings for the clutch pedal to prevent future issues.
What I was hoping for was a write up on performing this replacement. Thanks in advance!

-Jason

Here is a pic. It may not be the exact part but it's close. The circled part is what broke off. Help! Please!

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Old Wed, Dec-28-2005, 01:43:19 PM   #2
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i havent done it on an e36.. but yes you should replace the master. but just did one on another car.

in general.

uncock the bleeder on the slave.. allow to drain.

disconnect the linkage from the pedal (you can skip this step)

disconnect the hard line from the master itself, under the hood.

unbolt the master from the firewall and pull it out (from under the hood)

install is the reverse.. then bleed the hell out of it. sometimes its best to bench bleed the cylinder before it goes in the car.. that helps to get some air out.
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Old Wed, Dec-28-2005, 03:03:50 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_Dinan
My clutch pedal has completley disconected from the master cylinder. From what I could tell there is a black plastic loop on the end of the piston for the master cylinder. Upon further inspection I found the plactic loop (connector to clutch pedal) in two pecies on the floor. CRAP! I'm considering replacing the master cylinder and the bushings for the clutch pedal to prevent future issues.
What I was hoping for was a write up on performing this replacement. Thanks in advance!

-Jason

Here is a pic. It may not be the exact part but it's close. The circled part is what broke off. Help! Please!

BTDT when someone helping to bleed the clutch got too enthusiastic and slammed the thing to the floor (past the factory clutch stop). It splits right in half.

The only answer is to replace the cylinder. I found one by doing a web-search for about $45 (forget from who - but that was at least $30 less than from BMW - and it was IDENTICAL..) and I had it in 2 days.

It isn't that awful a job to replace. It turns out the lines leading to it - on later model M3's - fasten to it on the inside of the firewall with a sort of snap-in connector. When you get the new cylinder you'll see what I mean. Older designs used connections on the engine side of the firewall that look like a real pain to get to and replace.

It took me about 1 hour to do - but I knew exactly what I had to do since I'd been in there before looking at how to do it. When you're done - it pretty much bleeds itself since the input line to it from the brake-cylinder fluid reservoir is in a straight line - and the air bubbles up and the fluid trickles down into it. As you mentioned - this would be a good time to also do the clutch pedal bushings (which I also did.. UUC's)
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Old Wed, Dec-28-2005, 03:44:20 PM   #4
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Guys thanks big time. I'll update with the results in a few days. Thanks again.
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Old Wed, Dec-28-2005, 04:08:05 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badgtho
i havent done it on an e36.. but yes you should replace the master. but just did one on another car.

in general.

uncock the bleeder on the slave.. allow to drain.
No need to.. you can catch the fluid with a small bowl inside the car.
Quote:

disconnect the linkage from the pedal (you can skip this step)

disconnect the hard line from the master itself, under the hood.
Actually - under the dash..
Quote:

unbolt the master from the firewall and pull it out (from under the hood)
The master cylinder lives under the dash and entirely behind the firewall - passenger side. And it's bolted to the pedal carrier bracket.
Quote:

install is the reverse.. then bleed the hell out of it. sometimes its best to bench bleed the cylinder before it goes in the car.. that helps to get some air out.
Actually - in my experience - this cylinder almost self-bleeds. The line going from it up to the fluid reservoir is a straight line going almost straight up. Air just bubbles up through the line. Just had to pump mine a few times and it was fine.
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Discussing E36 Master Cylinder Help! (tried a few searches) in the E36 M3 (1992-1999) Forum - {Euro - S50 B32 321hp @ 7400 rpm} {U.S. - S52 B32 240 hp @ 6000 rpm}
Total Produced: 71,212 - Years Produced: 1992 to 1999 at BMW M3 Forum.com (E30 M3 | E36 M3 | E46 M3 | E92 M3 | F80/X)